i decided to install [for safety reasons] a 5,500 worth of safety equipment
installed are: lcd monitor, backup sensor, talking backhorn, waterproof-backup activated nightvision camera -5/30/07
by june ill get my the velocity vpc172 for superb sound and a good amp the following month
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
may 29
almost the end of may 2007, before the rain really starts to fall, and rainy season officially entes the country, i decided to take another shot and video of my ride
bug thunderstorm today, 7:00pm , probably the heaviest this month
and the first one this yr.
bug thunderstorm today, 7:00pm , probably the heaviest this month
and the first one this yr.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
may 26 anniversary of my lanshop installed new dvd today
yesterday may 25, 2007 i discovered that theres a new player and a challenger
to my DEN-R. Alex Tan a new lanshop owner and his shop is a new shop to be opened this coming july
last yr, it was lookup who opened up last july, now, its this Alex Tan.
25 units top of the line pc with lcd
haayyyy
problems problems....
now for a lighter side..
its May 26, 2007 today, the 1st yr anniversary of DEN-R internet cafe 2nd floor
to reward myself, i instaleld a visor 7" lvd dvd player on my right sunshade
and changed my steering wheel
to my DEN-R. Alex Tan a new lanshop owner and his shop is a new shop to be opened this coming july
last yr, it was lookup who opened up last july, now, its this Alex Tan.
25 units top of the line pc with lcd
haayyyy
problems problems....
now for a lighter side..
its May 26, 2007 today, the 1st yr anniversary of DEN-R internet cafe 2nd floor
to reward myself, i instaleld a visor 7" lvd dvd player on my right sunshade
and changed my steering wheel
Thursday, May 24, 2007
updated my cardomain site
updated my cardomain site at
members.cardomain.com/koyingkiat
there you could find my recent upgrade to my feroza
hid kit from bosch
pair of stebel nautilus for loud loud honk
12" blaupunkt subs
front lcd dvd visor
rear backup camera
all power, keyless entry
re-carpet re-uphostery
members.cardomain.com/koyingkiat
there you could find my recent upgrade to my feroza
hid kit from bosch
pair of stebel nautilus for loud loud honk
12" blaupunkt subs
front lcd dvd visor
rear backup camera
all power, keyless entry
re-carpet re-uphostery
Thursday, May 17, 2007
HID
bought a set of HID last 3days and a pair of airhorn
fixed the powerwindow so now, i have a pair of power windows
next time ill fix the central lock
a bnew carpet
finally a paint job
and a new set of wheels
fixed the powerwindow so now, i have a pair of power windows
next time ill fix the central lock
a bnew carpet
finally a paint job
and a new set of wheels
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
6g or 7g galant
as soon as my budget comes in, ill get myself a 6g or a 7g.
for a 6g[ill get the gti] and for the 7g a vr4
i hope the budget arrives before my bday
anyways ive done some research in mymitsuph.com and found this interesting site
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/visual-index.htm
its basically a virtual tour on how a galant engine looks like inside
for a 6g[ill get the gti] and for the 7g a vr4
i hope the budget arrives before my bday
anyways ive done some research in mymitsuph.com and found this interesting site
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/visual-index.htm
its basically a virtual tour on how a galant engine looks like inside
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
better than google maps
i just discovered this link
www.wikimapia.org
this enables you to search a specific area around the world or address and display the results
almost accurately depend on ur dsl connection
here is the link of where i live
http://wikimapia.org/#y=14659236&x=120984924&z=18&l=0&m=a&v=2
Monday, April 9, 2007
Sunday, April 8, 2007
car audio:enthusiast guide to caraudio
here's a helpful link(5 parts) which answers most of your FAQs and then some...
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part1/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part2/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part3/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part4/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part5/
Here's a little list that may help in understanding different audio terms used by members...will update this from time to time
Acoustic suspension - a sealed or closed box speaker enclosure.
Alignment - a class of enclosure parameters that provides optimum performance for a woofer with a given value of Q.
Alpha - in sealed enclosure designs, the ratio of Vas to Vb, where Vb is the volume of the box you will build. See sealed enclosure.
Alternating Current (AC) - an electrical current that periodically changes in magnitude and direction.
Ampere (A) - the unit of measurement for electrical current in coulombs per second. There is one ampere in a circuit that has one ohm resistance when one volt is applied to the circuit. See Ohms Law.
Amplifier - an electrical circuit designed to increase the current, voltage, or power of an applied signal.
Aperiodic Enclosure - an otherwise sealed enclosure design, but with a vent that is stuffed with damping material, which flattens out the impedance curve of the design. The area of this resistive vent should be about 10 sq. in. per cubic ft. of enclosure volume. This design might take some experimentation with the vent stuffing, testing the impedance curve several times with different amounts of damping material until the flattest impedance curve is found. The aperiodic resistive vent damps the driver in much the same way as fully stuffing a sealed enclosure with damping material (100% fill). In this way, an optimum design may be made up to 20% (or more) smaller due to the extra damping of the resistive vent. Enthusiasts of this design often compare the performance with transmission line enclosures, advocating that the design avoids the "ringing" effects of ported enclosures while alleviating the "pressure effect" of the sealed box. Dynaudio sells a DIY insertable resistive vent called the Variovent.
Attenuation - the reduction, typically by some controlled amount, of an electrical signal.
Audio frequency - the acoustic spectrum of human hearing, generally regarded to be between 20 Hz and 20 kHz.
Audio Noise - see Noise.
Baffle - a board or other plane surface used to mount a loudspeaker.
Balanced Line: an audio line comprising three conductors: two carrying signal and a ground (shield) wire, in which one of the signal wires carries the sound, while the other carries an inverted copy. When the signal reaches the destination, the inverted copy is flipped and added to the original. Any noise that has been induced into the signal is also inverted. When this is combined with the "un-inverted" noise, it cancels it out. Thus, balanced lines are less susceptible to hum and can carry audio signals over longer distances. Balanced audio lines typically use 3-pin XLR or 1/4-inch tip-ring-sleeve phone connectors.
Bandwidth - the range of frequencies covered by a driver or a network (crossover).
Band-pass Enclosure - see dual reflex bandpass and single reflex bandpass.
Band-pass filter - an electric circuit designed to pass only middle frequencies. See also High-pass and Low-pass filters.
Basket - the metal frame of a speaker.
"Bass Blockers" - first order high pass crossovers (non-polarized capacitors), generally used on midbass or dash speakers to keep them from trying to reproduce deep bass.
Bass (lows) - The low end of the audio frequency spectrum, from approximately 20 Hz up to 400 Hz or so.
Bass Reflex - a ported enclosure.
Beaming - the tendency of a loudspeaker to concentrate the sound in a narrow path instead of spreading it.
Boomy - the smearing of transients that makes bass reproduction sound muddled, usually because of improperly designed sealed (to small), ported (to small or tuned improperly), and bandpass enclosures, although the latter are sometimes designed this way on purpose by car audio manufacturers or install shops to be loud.
Bridging - combining both left and right stereo channels on an automotive amplifier into one higher powered mono channel. When an amplifier is bridged, the impedance that the amplifier actually "sees" is calculated based upon the output of both stereo channels. Here is a simple formula to help define this:
Bridged Mono Impedance = (Y / X)/2
Y = impedance of driver(s) (both drivers should be identical)
X = # of drivers in circuit
So, hooking up one 4 ohm sub bridged mono would be equal to hooking up two 2 ohm subs in stereo, one to each channel.
Cabin gain - the low frequency boost normally obtained inside a vehicle interior when subs are properly mounted.
Capacitor - a device made up of two metallic plates separated by a dielectric (insulating material). Used to store electrical energy in the electrostatic field between the plates. It produces an impedance to an ac current. In automotive applications, special "Power Line Caps" can be connected inline to the amplifier to aid the alternator in supplying current demands of amps. Non-polarized capacitors can be used as first order passive high pass crossovers, or as components in more complex high pass, bandpass and lowpass crossovers. See power line caps.
Center Channel - in home theater, sound decoded from the stereo signal sent to a speaker mounted in front of the listener, specially designed to enhance voices and sound effects from a movie soundtrack. Used in car audio to help offset skewed stereo imaging due to seating positions in the automotive environment.
Channel - the path an audio signal travels through a circuit during playback. At least 2 channels are required for stereo sound.
Circuit - a complete path that allows electrical current from one terminal of a voltage source to the other terminal.
Clipping - a distortion caused by cutting off the peaks of audio signals. Clipping usually occurs in the amplifier when it's input signal is too high or when the volume control is turned to high.
Cms - mechanical suspension compliance of a driver, consisting of the spider and surround.
Coaxial Driver - a speaker composed of two individual voice coils and cones; used for reproduction of sounds in two segments of the sound spectrum. See also triaxial driver.
Coulomb - 6.25 (10)^18 electrons per second.
Coloration - any change in the character of sound that reduces naturalness, such as an overemphasis of certain tones.
Compliance - the relative stiffness of a speaker suspension, specified as Vas.
Cone - the cone-shaped diaphragm of a speaker attached to the voice coil which produces pulsation's of air that the ear detects as sound.
Crossover Frequency - the frequency at which a driver's response is down -3dB. See Roll-off.
Crossover Network (Filter) - an electric circuit or network that splits the audio frequencies into different bands for application to individual speakers. See Electronic and Passive Crossover.
Current (I) - the flow of electrical charge measured in amperes.
Damping - the reduction of movement of a speaker cone, due either to the electromechanical characteristics of the speaker driver and suspension, the effects of frictional losses inside a speaker enclosure, and/or by electrical means.
Damping Factor - the measurement to derive the ability of the of the amplifier to control loudspeaker motion(Damping), via load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance.
Damping Material - any material added to the interior of a speaker enclosure to absorb sound and reduce out-of-phase reflection to the driver diaphragm (cone). Usually acoustic fiberglass, polyester batting, or Polyfill is used in speaker enclosures.
Decibel (dB) - a logarithmic scale used to denote a change in the relative strength of an electric signal or acoustic wave. It is a standard unit for expressing the ratio between power and power level. An increase of +3 dB is a doubling of electrical (or signal) power; an increase of +10 dB is a doubling of perceived loudness. The decibel is not an absolute measurement, but indicates the relationship or ratio between two signal levels.
Diaphragm - the part of a dynamic loudspeaker attached to the voice coil that moves and produces the sound. It usually has the shape of a cone or dome.
Direct Current (DC) - current in only one direction.
Diffraction - a change in the direction of a wave front that is caused by the wave moving past an obstacle.
Dispersion - the spreading of sound waves as it leaves a speaker.
Distortion - any undesirable change or error in the reproduction of sound that alters the original signal.
Dome Tweeter - a high frequency speaker with a dome-shaped diaphragm.
Double (Dual) Voice Coil (DVC) - a voice coil with two windings, generally subwoofers. Each voice coil can be connected to a stereo channel, or both voice coils can be wired in parallel or series to a single mono channel.
Driver - a loudspeaker unit, consisting of the electromagnetic components of a speaker, typically a magnet and voice coil.
Driver Parameters - the physical properties of a driver that determine it's electrical and acoustical behavior. The minimum parameters used in determining speaker enclosures are Fs, Qts, and Vas. See Thiele/Small Parameters.
Dual Reflex Bandpass Enclosure - sometimes called a 6th order bandpass. This design was engineered and patented by Bose® with their original AM-5® 6th Order BandpassAcoustimass® sub/satellite system (home speakers). In these designs, Vr is ported as well as Vf, so that there are 2 resonant frequencies. Vf and Vr are tuned about an octave apart, providing the driver with excellent damping at resonance, even further reducing distortion. This design is even more efficient than a single reflex bandpass, but with a compromise. The system has the same high frequency roll-off of -12 dB/octave, but low frequency cut-off is at -24 dB/octave (just like a regular ported enclosure). Power handling is excellent within it's frequency bandwidth, but these designs are similar to ported in that they are subject to low frequency noise upsetting the driver(s) below F3. Transient response is also rather poor, but these enclosures can be made to play very loud. One of the most difficult enclosures to build and tune.
Dynamic range - the range of sound intensity a system can reproduce without compressing or distorting the signal.
EBP - Efficiency Bandwidth Product. A rating that helps a builder determine whether a driver is suitable for a sealed or ported enclosure. EBP of less than 50 indicates the driver should be used in a sealed, 50 - 90 indicates flexible design options, over 90 indicates best for a ported enclosure.
EBP = Fs / Qes
Efficiency rating - the loudspeaker parameter that shows the level of sound output when measured at a prescribed distance with a standard level of electrical energy fed into the speaker. Note, however, that a driver with a high efficiency rating needs a larger box to play a lower frequency than a driver with a lower efficiency rating. This means that a low efficiency driver in a small box will actually have higher sub bass SPL's than a high efficiency driver in a similar small box!
Electronic Crossover - uses active circuitry to send signals to appropriate drivers. More efficient than passive crossovers.
Enclosure - the box that contains the driver(s).
Equalizer - electronic device used to boost or attenuate certain frequencies.
Equal Loudness Curve - see Fletcher-Munson and Robinson and Dadson Curves
F3 - the roll-off frequency at which the driver's response is down -3dB from the level of it's midband response, sometimes called the cutoff frequency.
Fb - the tuned frequency of a ported box.
Fc or Fcb - the system resonance frequency of a driver in a sealed box.
Fs - the frequency of resonance for a driver in free air.
Farad - the basic unit of capacitance. A capacitor has a value of one farad when it can store one coulomb of charge with one volt across it.
Filter - any electrical circuit or mechanical device that removes or attenuates energy at certain frequencies. See Crossover Network.
Flat Response - the faithful reproduction of an audio signal; specifically, the variations in output level of less than 1 dB above or below a median level over the audio spectrum.
Fletcher Munson curve - one of many sets of equal-loudness contours for the human ear
Free Air Resonance - the natural resonant frequency of a driver when operating outside an enclosure.
Frequency - the number of waves (or cycles) arriving at or passing a point in one second, expressed in hertz (Hz).
Frequency Response - the frequency range to which a system, or any part of it, can respond. Unless a limit of variation in intensity is stated, this specification is meaningless. i.e., you see a subwoofer in a ported enclosure with a rated response of 35 - 300 Hz. Means nothing. It could very well be that it is 35 - 300 Hz (-24 dB), which means the low frequency roll-off actually begins at around 70 Hz. It needs to read something like this: 35 - 300 Hz (- 3 dB), which gives 35 Hz as the actual roll off frequency.
Fundamental Tone - the tone produced by the lowest frequency component of an audio signal.
Full-range - a speaker designed to reproduce all or most of the sound spectrum.
Golden Ratio - the ratio of the depth, width, and height of a speaker enclosure, based on the Greek Golden Rectangle. Usually recommended for home speakers, difficult to use in car audio applications. The Ratio: W = 1.0, Depth = 0.618W, Height = 1.618W.
Ground - refers to a point of (usually) zero voltage, and can pertain to a power circuit or a signal circuit. In car audio, the single most important factor to avoid unwanted noise is finding and setting a good ground.
Harmonic - the multiple frequencies of a given sound, created by the interaction of signal waveforms.
Harmonic Distortion - harmonics artificially added by an electrical circuit or speaker, and are generally undesirable. It is expressed as a percentage of the original signal. See THD.
Head Unit - the in dash control center of a car audio system, usually consisting of an internal low powered amp, AM/FM receiver, and either a tape or CD player (or both).
Hertz (Hz) - a measurement of the frequency of sound vibration. One hertz is equal to one cycle per second. The hertz is named for H.R. Hertz, a German physicist.
High-pass Filter - an electric circuit that passes high frequencies but blocks low ones. See Band-pass and Low-pass filters.
Hiss - audio noise that sounds like air escaping from a tire.
Home Theater - an audio system designed to reproduce the theater sound experience while viewing movies in the home. Minimally consisting of a Dolby Pro Logic® surround sound receiver, left and right front speakers, a center channel speaker, and at least (1) surround sound speaker. These plus optional subwoofer(s), surround speaker(s), and digital formats such as Dolby Digital® can enhance the viewing experience by drastically improving the sound quality of movie soundtracks.
Hum - audio noise that has a steady low frequency pitch.
Imaging - see Soundstage.
Impedance - the opposition of a circuit or speaker to ac current; the combined effect of a speaker's resistance, inductance, and capacitance that opposes the current fed to it. It is measured in ohms and varies with the frequency of the signal.
Inductance (L) - the capability of a coil to store energy in a magnetic field surrounding it. It produces an impedance to an ac current. Inductors are commonly used in audio as low pass crossovers. See Le.
Infinite Baffle - a flat surface that completely isolates the back wave of a driver from the front without a standard enclosure.
Infrasonic (Subsonic) Filter - a filter designed to remove extremely low frequency (25Hz or lower) noise from the audio signal. Useful for Ported box designs.
Input - the current fed into a loudspeaker.
Isobarik Enclosure - enclosure where one woofer is buried in the enclosure and a second is mounted up against the first and wired in reverse polarity Isobarik Configuration(there are other variations for Isobarik designs, but this one is the best). This allows the effective Vas of both drivers working in this push-pull configuration to be half that of a single identical driver mounted normally. Very small enclosures may be constructed as a result, with increased power handling. Any variation of a normal enclosure can be made Isobarik - so you could conceivably have an Isobarik dual reflex bandpass, ect. (good luck tuning it, though). Less efficient than other designs, but the push pull configuration greatly reduces second order harmonic distortion. Originally, a variation of this design was patented by Ivan Tiefenbrun, who produces various audiophile components in Scotland under the name of Linn Products. The name Isobarik comes from a term that means "constant pressure". See push-pull.
Kilohertz (kHz) - one thousand hertz.
Le - the inductance of a driver's voice coil, typically measured at 1 kHz in millihenries (mH).
Low-Pass Filter - an electric circuit designed to pass only low frequencies. See Band-pass and High-pass filters.
Lobing - the tendency of a speaker system that consists of more than one driver to produce a lobed frequency response in space with in-phase reinforcement (lobes) from the various drivers occurring at some elevations and out-of-phase opposition (nulls) at points between the lobes.
Maximum power rating - a value which means almost nothing, but is used nonetheless by manufacturers to entice the unsuspecting into purchasing their product based solely on the big number. Technically, it is the maximum wattage that an audio component can deliver/handle as a brief burst during a musical peak. Most reputable manufacturers will provide both an RMS and Max power rating. Typically, the given value for the maximum power rating is twice to three times that of RMS. Automotive head units are a good example of this shady technique, as all the ones I have ever seen use this rating for the built in amplifier output. Use RMS for determining real world equipment capabilities. See WLS.
Microfarads (mF) - a measurement of capacitance.
Midbass - mid level bass, usually frequencies just above the sub-bass range, from around 100 - 400 Hz or so.
Midrange (mids) - the frequency range above bass but below treble that carries most of the identifying tones of music or speech. It is usually from 300 - 400 Hz to 3kHz or so.
Millihenries (mH) - a measurement of inductance.
Mms - the moving mass of a driver assembly.
Mono - monophonic sound. A method for reproducing sound where the signals from all directions or sources are blended into a single channel.
MOSFET - Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors. Used in most modern, quality car audio amplifiers in the power supply (and sometimes in the output stage). MOSFET's run cooler than normal bipolar transistors, and have a faster switching speed.
Noise - any undesirable sound reproduced in an audio system.
Noise Floor - In an electronic device, the sound level of undesired sounds generated by the device itself. How loud the background static generated by a device is. (All audio gear produces some amount of noise due to the thermal properties of components.)
Octave - a range of tones where the highest tone occurs at twice the frequency of the lowest tone.
Ohm - a unit of electrical resistance or impedance.
Ohm's Law - a basic law of electric circuits. It states that the current [I] in amperes in a circuit is equal to the voltage [E] in volts divided by the resistance [R] in ohms; thus, I = E/R.
Out of Phase - when your speakers are mounted in reverse polarity, i.e., one speaker is wired +/+ and -/- from the amp and the other is wired +/- and -/+. Bass response will be very thin due to cancellation.
Output - the sound level produced by a loudspeaker.
Passive Crossover - uses inductors (coils) and capacitors to direct proper frequencies to appropriate drivers. These crossover systems can be simple (First Order = 1 component @ -6 dB/octave slope) to complex (Fourth Order = 4 components @ -24 dB/octave slope).
Passive Radiator - a device that looks just like an ordinary driver, except it has no magnet or voice coil. A radiator is usually a highly compliant device, with a similar cone material and surround found on regular active drivers. The radiator must usually be at least as large (or larger) than the driver it is aligned with. The passive radiator is tuned to Fb and used in place of a port, providing bass reinforcement for the driver in a similar fashion as any regular ported box. A clear advantage of the radiator is the absence of port noise, and some audiophiles claim the radiator provides a better sounding bass than a ported enclosure. Disadvantages include difficulty in tuning, and the extra required baffle area for the radiator. Most radiators can be tuned with either weights or silicone, adding material in a balanced manner until Fb is attained.
Pe - Driver's rated RMS power handling capability.
Peak - the maximum amplitude of a voltage or current.
Peak power rating - see Maximum power rating.
Peak-to-Peak power rating - a totally unreliable value of rating power amplifiers, often 4 times (or more!) the actual RMS output. See WLS.
Phase - a point in time (instant) on a waveform cycle. A complete cycle is defined as 360 degrees of phase
Phase Coherence - the relationship and timing of sounds that come from different drivers (subs, mids, tweets) mounted in different locations in the vehicle.
Phase Shift - The change in phase of a periodic signal with respect to a reference.
Phase Distortion - a type of audible distortion caused by time delay between various parts of the signal; can be caused by equalizers.
phon - unit of perceived loudness level LN for pure tones[1]. The purpose of the phon scale is to compensate for the effect of frequency on the perceived loudness of tones[2]. By definition, 1 phon is equal to 1 dBSPL at a frequency of 1 kHz[3]. The Fletcher-Munson curves are a way of mapping the dBSPL of a pure tone to the perceived loudness level in phons.
Polarity - the orientation of magnetic or electric fields. The polarity of the incoming audio signal determines the direction of movement of the speaker cone. Must be observed when wiring speakers, so that they are "in phase". See Out of Phase.
Ported Enclosure - a type of speaker enclosure that uses a duct or port to improve efficiency at low frequencies. Excellent design for lower power systems, as the port often adds up to +3 dB to low frequency efficiency. F3 can be set considerably lower with proper design, although low frequency roll-off is generally -24 dB/octave. Good transient response with proper tuning, although the driver loses damping below the tuning frequency. Excellent power handling about Fb, but source material or frequencies below Fb cause the driver to progressively Portedperform as if it were not enclosed at all. Due to this, ported enclosures without a low frequency filter may have lower power handling compared to other designs. More difficult to properly build and tune than a sealed enclosure, with several "optimum" alignments available depending upon the Qts of the driver. I highly recommend Vance Dickason's "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook," which goes into great detail concerning the different possible alignments of ported enclosures. The best way to model these alignments is with a software program, where changes in tuning and enclosure size can be immediately noted. Though it can be dated to the 1930's, the ported alignments were thoroughly researched and standardized by A.N. Thiele in the 60's and R. Small in the 70's. This work was further expanded by D.B. Keele and others.
Power (P) - the time rate of doing work or the rate at which energy is used. One equation for Power:
P = Volts^2 / Impedance
Power Line Capacitor - wired inline on the power lead with your car amp, this device stores current for instant release when short bursts of energy are needed to produce loud, deep bass notes. Best to mount as close to amp as possible.
Pressure Effect - in sealed box designs, the pressure build-up on one side of the cone which may cause non-linearity and inhibit dynamic range in the low bass.Sunfire True Subwoofer
Push-Pull Configuration - one driver is mounted normally, the second is mounted so that it faces into the enclosure, both sharing the same internal volume and wired out of phase with one another. Although electrically out of phase with one another, the drivers are acoustically in phase since they move in the same direction. This alignment theoretically reduces second order harmonic distortion. Bob Carver has done a great deal of research into this area, and has manufactured the Sunfire True Subwoofer, a unique push-pull design that utilizes a special passive radiator. Check out the white paper description! Wow!
Q - the magnification of resonance factor of any resonant device or circuit. A driver with a high Q is more resonant than one with a low Q.
Qes - the electrical Q of the driver.
Qms - the mechanical Q of the driver.
Qts - the total Q of the driver at Fs. Qts = Qes x Qms/Qes + Qms.
Qtc - value for the damping provided for a driver in a sealed enclosure. Denotes the enclosures ability to control the driver response at resonance. Qtc = 0.707 is the optimum value for sealed enclosures, providing flattest response and highest SPL for deep bass extension. Enclosures for this value are often rather large. Lower Qtc can give even better transient response, down to a Qtc of 0.577 for the best damping and transients, but the enclosure is usually huge and SPL's are down. A Qtc of 1.0 is a compromise between deep bass and transient response vs. smaller sized enclosure. Larger subs can go with an even higher Qtc, as their resonant frequency is often very low, but Qtc's above 1.5 can begin to sound very muddled and boomy, and sacrifice deep bass extension and transient response for enhanced mid-bass peaks (louder). Check out Enclosure Dilemma: Ported vs. Sealed, an article on this web site that gives more information about Qtc.
Rear fill - in autosound, the ambience created by a pair of rear speakers that helps complete the soundstage. A set of high quality components for the front powered by an external amp and a set of coax mounted on the rear deck powered by the head unit or small amp is a good example of a rear fill application. Rear fill speakers should be faded so that they create a richer ambience, but you should not be able to isolate any sounds coming from them.
Resonance - the tendency of a speaker to vibrate most at a particular frequency.
Resonance Frequency - the frequency at which any system vibrates naturally when excited by a stimulus.
Resistance (Re) - in electrical or electronic circuits, a characteristic of a material that opposes the flow of electrons. Speakers have resistance that opposes current.
RMS - an acronym for "root mean square." Used in audio to help rate the continuous power output of an amplifier or input capability of speakers. This is the preferred method for comparing anything in audio applications.
Robinson and Dadson - in 1956, became the basis for an ISO standard ISO 226 which was only revised recently regarding the Equal Loudness Contour
Roll-off (cut-off) - the attenuation that occurs at the lower or upper frequency range of a driver, network, or system. The roll-off frequency is usually defined as the frequency where response is reduced by -3 dB.
S or (Q') - the overall damping of a 4th order bandpass enclosure. i.e., if you were to figure a 4th order bandpass enclosure with a Qtc of 0.70 for Vr (the sealed chamber), then you would also figure Vf (ported chamber) with an S of 0.70. See Useful Conversions and Formulas for more information and the formulas involved.
Sd - effective piston area of a driver.
Sealed enclosure - air tight enclosure that completely isolates the back wave of the Sealeddriver from the front. Very tight, defined sound (with Qtc = 0.707) with very good transient response and power handling. Low frequency roll-off is at -12 dB/octave. Less efficient than other designs, and higher distortion levels at resonance. Easy to design and build. Originally this design was pioneered and marketed by companies like Acoustic Research. See Qtc.
Signal - the desired portion of electrical information.
Signal-to-noise (S/N) - the ratio, expressed in dB, between the signal and noise.
Sine wave - the waveform of a pure alternating current or voltage. It deviates about a zero point to a positive value and a negative value. Audio signals are sine waves or combinations of sine waves.
Single Reflex Bandpass Enclosure - sometimes called a 4th order bandpass. A design where the driver is completely "buried" in the enclosure, mounted in a4th Order Bandpass sealed chamber (Vr) and firing into a second ported chamber with the sound emanating from one or more ports. This second chamber (Vf) is tuned to the sealed drivers Fcb. Band-pass enclosures pass only a limited range of frequencies, negating the need for crossovers in the circuit. In a typical single reflex bandpass, the cutoff rate below and above the "pass-band" is at a rate of -12dB/octave. These designs are very efficient within the operating bandwidth, with superior power handling, but generally inferior transient response to sealed (all the sound has to come out of the vent). Transient response can be very good if the enclosure is configured with a S of 0.70. Can be very difficult to design and build. These enclosures have been around since the 1950's, and companies like KEF helped pioneer the manufacture and marketing of this design. See also Dual reflex bandpass.
Skin Effect - technically, a physical phenomenon that relates to the limited penetration into a conductor of an RadioFrequent signal according to its frequency. In a direct current case everything is constant and so nothing seems to happen. With an alternating current, however, there is a delay in the magnetic field's response to the change in current and the 'old' magnetic field tends to push the current towards the outside of the conductor. As the frequency increases, so does the effect until at very high frequencies the entire current flows in a very narrow skin on the conductor - hence the name. Skin effect is negligable in car audio applications. (The full article can be found here). Thanks Wim!
Sound Pressure Level (SPL) - the loudness of an acoustic wave stated in dB that is proportional to the logarithm of its intensity.
Sound Stage - the sound systems ability to correctly place instruments on an imaginary soundstage; reproduction of the way the music would sound if you were actually watching the musicians play in front of you. The stage should always appear to be in front of you, with a proper "image" of where each musician is playing on the imaginary soundstage.
Spider - the flexible material that supports the former, voice coil, and inside portion of the cone within the speaker frame.
Standing wave - a buildup of sound level at a particular frequency that is dependent upon the dimensions of a resonant room, car interior, or enclosure. It occurs when the rate of energy loss equals the rate of energy input into the system. This is what you hear when you listen into a sea shell.
Sub-bass - portion of bass that is very low, usually from 20 Hz - 100 Hz or so.
Subwoofer - a loudspeaker designed to reproduce sub-bass frequencies.
Surround (suspension) - the outer suspension of a speaker cone; holds the diaphragm in place but allows it to move when activated. Usually made of foam or rubber.
Surround Sound - usually representative of the monophonic sound extracted from the stereo signal sent to smaller rear or side speakers used in a home theater.
Thiele/Small parameters - numbers that specify the behaviour of drivers, as defined and analyzed by two engineers, Neville Thiele and Richard Small. See Driver Parameters.
Three-way - a type of speaker system composed of three ranges of speakers, specifically a woofer, midrange, and tweeter.
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) - the percentage, in relation to a pure input signal, of harmonically derived frequencies introduced in the sound reproducing circuitry and hi-fi equipment (including speakers).
Transient Response - the ability of a speaker to respond to any sudden change in the signal without blurring (smearing) the sound.Panga Ribbon Transmission Line Loudspeaker
Transmission Line Enclosure - a design in which the driver is at one end of the enclosure, with an internal path which consists of a series of bends or curves that lead to a port at the other end of the enclosure. The path length is a fraction of the wavelength at low frequencies. The length of the path is increased by stuffing the box with either long fiber wool or polyester batting, and produces a phase shift in the back wave that reinforces bass at low frequencies. Enclosures must be very large, but low end response of these systems is legendary among audiophiles. Drivers with Qts of less than 0.4 that work well in ported should work well in these designs, but no standardized method for configuring these enclosures exists that engineers have yet to agree upon. Power handling is generally less than in other designs, but drivers may be capable of responding down to Fs. One of the most difficult enclosures to design and build, and much experimentation may be necessary to get things right. "Labyrinths" and "Tapered (Stuffed) Pipes"are both variants of this type of enclosure. Check out the Panga transmission line speaker manufactured by Davidson Loudspeakers.
Treble (highs) - the upper end of the audio spectrum reproduced by tweeters, usually 3 - 4 kHz and up.
Triaxial driver - a speaker that is composed of three individual voice coils and cones; used for the reproduction of sounds in three segments of the sound spectrum.
Tri-way output - when a special passive crossover is used with an automotive amplifier to safely power a subwoofer in bridged mono (low pass circuit) as well as a pair of stereo speakers (high pass circuit). Normal inductors and capacitors can be used for Tri-way output.
Tweeter - a speaker designed to reproduce the high or treble range of the sound spectrum.
Two-way - a type of speaker system composed of two ranges of speakers, usually a woofer and tweeter.
Vas - the equivalent volume of compliance, which specifies a volume of air having the same compliance as the suspension system of a driver.
Vb - total box volume, usually in cubic feet or liters. Used specifically in sealed and ported designs.
Vf - front volume of a bandpass design.
Vr - rear volume of a bandpass design.
Voice coil - the wire wound around the speaker former. The former is mechanically connected to the speaker cone and causes the cone to vibrate in response to the audio current in the voice coil.
Volt (E) - a unit of measurement used to measure how much "pressure" is used to force electricity through a circuit.
Watt - a unit of electrical power. A watt of electrical power is the use of one joule of energy per second. Watts of electrical power equals volts times amperes.
Wavelength - the length of a sound wave in air. It can be found for any frequency by dividing the speed of sound in air (1120 feet per second) by the frequency of the sound, or: WL = 1120 / Freq.
Whizzer - a small supplementary cone attached to the center of the speaker's main cone for the purpose of increasing high frequency response.
WLS - When Lightning Strikes. The power ratings that you see provided on head units or cheap amps and stereo equipment that means absolutely nothing. If you see equipment with an impossible exaggerated rating, just say no. OK, I made this one up, but I think it is rather appropriate. Maybe the Federal Trade Commission will see this page…
Woofer - a bass loudspeaker designed to reproduce low-frequency sound only. A woofer and subwoofer are usually the same type of loudspeaker, but their application (crossover frequency) differentiates them.
XLR - Developed by ITT/Cannon, XLRs are rugged, locking, multi-pin connectors frequently used in professional audio equipment. While 3-pin XLRs are most commonly seen on microphones and console inputs, other configurations also exist, such as 4-pin XLRs (a standard for stage intercom systems) and 5-pin XLRs (often used on stereo microphones).
Xmax - maximum linear cone excursion of a driver, measured in inches or millimeters. Check out what JL Audio has to say about Xmax and acoustic output relationships!
*definitions sourced from different audio websites
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part1/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part2/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part3/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part4/
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part5/
Here's a little list that may help in understanding different audio terms used by members...will update this from time to time
Acoustic suspension - a sealed or closed box speaker enclosure.
Alignment - a class of enclosure parameters that provides optimum performance for a woofer with a given value of Q.
Alpha - in sealed enclosure designs, the ratio of Vas to Vb, where Vb is the volume of the box you will build. See sealed enclosure.
Alternating Current (AC) - an electrical current that periodically changes in magnitude and direction.
Ampere (A) - the unit of measurement for electrical current in coulombs per second. There is one ampere in a circuit that has one ohm resistance when one volt is applied to the circuit. See Ohms Law.
Amplifier - an electrical circuit designed to increase the current, voltage, or power of an applied signal.
Aperiodic Enclosure - an otherwise sealed enclosure design, but with a vent that is stuffed with damping material, which flattens out the impedance curve of the design. The area of this resistive vent should be about 10 sq. in. per cubic ft. of enclosure volume. This design might take some experimentation with the vent stuffing, testing the impedance curve several times with different amounts of damping material until the flattest impedance curve is found. The aperiodic resistive vent damps the driver in much the same way as fully stuffing a sealed enclosure with damping material (100% fill). In this way, an optimum design may be made up to 20% (or more) smaller due to the extra damping of the resistive vent. Enthusiasts of this design often compare the performance with transmission line enclosures, advocating that the design avoids the "ringing" effects of ported enclosures while alleviating the "pressure effect" of the sealed box. Dynaudio sells a DIY insertable resistive vent called the Variovent.
Attenuation - the reduction, typically by some controlled amount, of an electrical signal.
Audio frequency - the acoustic spectrum of human hearing, generally regarded to be between 20 Hz and 20 kHz.
Audio Noise - see Noise.
Baffle - a board or other plane surface used to mount a loudspeaker.
Balanced Line: an audio line comprising three conductors: two carrying signal and a ground (shield) wire, in which one of the signal wires carries the sound, while the other carries an inverted copy. When the signal reaches the destination, the inverted copy is flipped and added to the original. Any noise that has been induced into the signal is also inverted. When this is combined with the "un-inverted" noise, it cancels it out. Thus, balanced lines are less susceptible to hum and can carry audio signals over longer distances. Balanced audio lines typically use 3-pin XLR or 1/4-inch tip-ring-sleeve phone connectors.
Bandwidth - the range of frequencies covered by a driver or a network (crossover).
Band-pass Enclosure - see dual reflex bandpass and single reflex bandpass.
Band-pass filter - an electric circuit designed to pass only middle frequencies. See also High-pass and Low-pass filters.
Basket - the metal frame of a speaker.
"Bass Blockers" - first order high pass crossovers (non-polarized capacitors), generally used on midbass or dash speakers to keep them from trying to reproduce deep bass.
Bass (lows) - The low end of the audio frequency spectrum, from approximately 20 Hz up to 400 Hz or so.
Bass Reflex - a ported enclosure.
Beaming - the tendency of a loudspeaker to concentrate the sound in a narrow path instead of spreading it.
Boomy - the smearing of transients that makes bass reproduction sound muddled, usually because of improperly designed sealed (to small), ported (to small or tuned improperly), and bandpass enclosures, although the latter are sometimes designed this way on purpose by car audio manufacturers or install shops to be loud.
Bridging - combining both left and right stereo channels on an automotive amplifier into one higher powered mono channel. When an amplifier is bridged, the impedance that the amplifier actually "sees" is calculated based upon the output of both stereo channels. Here is a simple formula to help define this:
Bridged Mono Impedance = (Y / X)/2
Y = impedance of driver(s) (both drivers should be identical)
X = # of drivers in circuit
So, hooking up one 4 ohm sub bridged mono would be equal to hooking up two 2 ohm subs in stereo, one to each channel.
Cabin gain - the low frequency boost normally obtained inside a vehicle interior when subs are properly mounted.
Capacitor - a device made up of two metallic plates separated by a dielectric (insulating material). Used to store electrical energy in the electrostatic field between the plates. It produces an impedance to an ac current. In automotive applications, special "Power Line Caps" can be connected inline to the amplifier to aid the alternator in supplying current demands of amps. Non-polarized capacitors can be used as first order passive high pass crossovers, or as components in more complex high pass, bandpass and lowpass crossovers. See power line caps.
Center Channel - in home theater, sound decoded from the stereo signal sent to a speaker mounted in front of the listener, specially designed to enhance voices and sound effects from a movie soundtrack. Used in car audio to help offset skewed stereo imaging due to seating positions in the automotive environment.
Channel - the path an audio signal travels through a circuit during playback. At least 2 channels are required for stereo sound.
Circuit - a complete path that allows electrical current from one terminal of a voltage source to the other terminal.
Clipping - a distortion caused by cutting off the peaks of audio signals. Clipping usually occurs in the amplifier when it's input signal is too high or when the volume control is turned to high.
Cms - mechanical suspension compliance of a driver, consisting of the spider and surround.
Coaxial Driver - a speaker composed of two individual voice coils and cones; used for reproduction of sounds in two segments of the sound spectrum. See also triaxial driver.
Coulomb - 6.25 (10)^18 electrons per second.
Coloration - any change in the character of sound that reduces naturalness, such as an overemphasis of certain tones.
Compliance - the relative stiffness of a speaker suspension, specified as Vas.
Cone - the cone-shaped diaphragm of a speaker attached to the voice coil which produces pulsation's of air that the ear detects as sound.
Crossover Frequency - the frequency at which a driver's response is down -3dB. See Roll-off.
Crossover Network (Filter) - an electric circuit or network that splits the audio frequencies into different bands for application to individual speakers. See Electronic and Passive Crossover.
Current (I) - the flow of electrical charge measured in amperes.
Damping - the reduction of movement of a speaker cone, due either to the electromechanical characteristics of the speaker driver and suspension, the effects of frictional losses inside a speaker enclosure, and/or by electrical means.
Damping Factor - the measurement to derive the ability of the of the amplifier to control loudspeaker motion(Damping), via load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance.
Damping Material - any material added to the interior of a speaker enclosure to absorb sound and reduce out-of-phase reflection to the driver diaphragm (cone). Usually acoustic fiberglass, polyester batting, or Polyfill is used in speaker enclosures.
Decibel (dB) - a logarithmic scale used to denote a change in the relative strength of an electric signal or acoustic wave. It is a standard unit for expressing the ratio between power and power level. An increase of +3 dB is a doubling of electrical (or signal) power; an increase of +10 dB is a doubling of perceived loudness. The decibel is not an absolute measurement, but indicates the relationship or ratio between two signal levels.
Diaphragm - the part of a dynamic loudspeaker attached to the voice coil that moves and produces the sound. It usually has the shape of a cone or dome.
Direct Current (DC) - current in only one direction.
Diffraction - a change in the direction of a wave front that is caused by the wave moving past an obstacle.
Dispersion - the spreading of sound waves as it leaves a speaker.
Distortion - any undesirable change or error in the reproduction of sound that alters the original signal.
Dome Tweeter - a high frequency speaker with a dome-shaped diaphragm.
Double (Dual) Voice Coil (DVC) - a voice coil with two windings, generally subwoofers. Each voice coil can be connected to a stereo channel, or both voice coils can be wired in parallel or series to a single mono channel.
Driver - a loudspeaker unit, consisting of the electromagnetic components of a speaker, typically a magnet and voice coil.
Driver Parameters - the physical properties of a driver that determine it's electrical and acoustical behavior. The minimum parameters used in determining speaker enclosures are Fs, Qts, and Vas. See Thiele/Small Parameters.
Dual Reflex Bandpass Enclosure - sometimes called a 6th order bandpass. This design was engineered and patented by Bose® with their original AM-5® 6th Order BandpassAcoustimass® sub/satellite system (home speakers). In these designs, Vr is ported as well as Vf, so that there are 2 resonant frequencies. Vf and Vr are tuned about an octave apart, providing the driver with excellent damping at resonance, even further reducing distortion. This design is even more efficient than a single reflex bandpass, but with a compromise. The system has the same high frequency roll-off of -12 dB/octave, but low frequency cut-off is at -24 dB/octave (just like a regular ported enclosure). Power handling is excellent within it's frequency bandwidth, but these designs are similar to ported in that they are subject to low frequency noise upsetting the driver(s) below F3. Transient response is also rather poor, but these enclosures can be made to play very loud. One of the most difficult enclosures to build and tune.
Dynamic range - the range of sound intensity a system can reproduce without compressing or distorting the signal.
EBP - Efficiency Bandwidth Product. A rating that helps a builder determine whether a driver is suitable for a sealed or ported enclosure. EBP of less than 50 indicates the driver should be used in a sealed, 50 - 90 indicates flexible design options, over 90 indicates best for a ported enclosure.
EBP = Fs / Qes
Efficiency rating - the loudspeaker parameter that shows the level of sound output when measured at a prescribed distance with a standard level of electrical energy fed into the speaker. Note, however, that a driver with a high efficiency rating needs a larger box to play a lower frequency than a driver with a lower efficiency rating. This means that a low efficiency driver in a small box will actually have higher sub bass SPL's than a high efficiency driver in a similar small box!
Electronic Crossover - uses active circuitry to send signals to appropriate drivers. More efficient than passive crossovers.
Enclosure - the box that contains the driver(s).
Equalizer - electronic device used to boost or attenuate certain frequencies.
Equal Loudness Curve - see Fletcher-Munson and Robinson and Dadson Curves
F3 - the roll-off frequency at which the driver's response is down -3dB from the level of it's midband response, sometimes called the cutoff frequency.
Fb - the tuned frequency of a ported box.
Fc or Fcb - the system resonance frequency of a driver in a sealed box.
Fs - the frequency of resonance for a driver in free air.
Farad - the basic unit of capacitance. A capacitor has a value of one farad when it can store one coulomb of charge with one volt across it.
Filter - any electrical circuit or mechanical device that removes or attenuates energy at certain frequencies. See Crossover Network.
Flat Response - the faithful reproduction of an audio signal; specifically, the variations in output level of less than 1 dB above or below a median level over the audio spectrum.
Fletcher Munson curve - one of many sets of equal-loudness contours for the human ear
Free Air Resonance - the natural resonant frequency of a driver when operating outside an enclosure.
Frequency - the number of waves (or cycles) arriving at or passing a point in one second, expressed in hertz (Hz).
Frequency Response - the frequency range to which a system, or any part of it, can respond. Unless a limit of variation in intensity is stated, this specification is meaningless. i.e., you see a subwoofer in a ported enclosure with a rated response of 35 - 300 Hz. Means nothing. It could very well be that it is 35 - 300 Hz (-24 dB), which means the low frequency roll-off actually begins at around 70 Hz. It needs to read something like this: 35 - 300 Hz (- 3 dB), which gives 35 Hz as the actual roll off frequency.
Fundamental Tone - the tone produced by the lowest frequency component of an audio signal.
Full-range - a speaker designed to reproduce all or most of the sound spectrum.
Golden Ratio - the ratio of the depth, width, and height of a speaker enclosure, based on the Greek Golden Rectangle. Usually recommended for home speakers, difficult to use in car audio applications. The Ratio: W = 1.0, Depth = 0.618W, Height = 1.618W.
Ground - refers to a point of (usually) zero voltage, and can pertain to a power circuit or a signal circuit. In car audio, the single most important factor to avoid unwanted noise is finding and setting a good ground.
Harmonic - the multiple frequencies of a given sound, created by the interaction of signal waveforms.
Harmonic Distortion - harmonics artificially added by an electrical circuit or speaker, and are generally undesirable. It is expressed as a percentage of the original signal. See THD.
Head Unit - the in dash control center of a car audio system, usually consisting of an internal low powered amp, AM/FM receiver, and either a tape or CD player (or both).
Hertz (Hz) - a measurement of the frequency of sound vibration. One hertz is equal to one cycle per second. The hertz is named for H.R. Hertz, a German physicist.
High-pass Filter - an electric circuit that passes high frequencies but blocks low ones. See Band-pass and Low-pass filters.
Hiss - audio noise that sounds like air escaping from a tire.
Home Theater - an audio system designed to reproduce the theater sound experience while viewing movies in the home. Minimally consisting of a Dolby Pro Logic® surround sound receiver, left and right front speakers, a center channel speaker, and at least (1) surround sound speaker. These plus optional subwoofer(s), surround speaker(s), and digital formats such as Dolby Digital® can enhance the viewing experience by drastically improving the sound quality of movie soundtracks.
Hum - audio noise that has a steady low frequency pitch.
Imaging - see Soundstage.
Impedance - the opposition of a circuit or speaker to ac current; the combined effect of a speaker's resistance, inductance, and capacitance that opposes the current fed to it. It is measured in ohms and varies with the frequency of the signal.
Inductance (L) - the capability of a coil to store energy in a magnetic field surrounding it. It produces an impedance to an ac current. Inductors are commonly used in audio as low pass crossovers. See Le.
Infinite Baffle - a flat surface that completely isolates the back wave of a driver from the front without a standard enclosure.
Infrasonic (Subsonic) Filter - a filter designed to remove extremely low frequency (25Hz or lower) noise from the audio signal. Useful for Ported box designs.
Input - the current fed into a loudspeaker.
Isobarik Enclosure - enclosure where one woofer is buried in the enclosure and a second is mounted up against the first and wired in reverse polarity Isobarik Configuration(there are other variations for Isobarik designs, but this one is the best). This allows the effective Vas of both drivers working in this push-pull configuration to be half that of a single identical driver mounted normally. Very small enclosures may be constructed as a result, with increased power handling. Any variation of a normal enclosure can be made Isobarik - so you could conceivably have an Isobarik dual reflex bandpass, ect. (good luck tuning it, though). Less efficient than other designs, but the push pull configuration greatly reduces second order harmonic distortion. Originally, a variation of this design was patented by Ivan Tiefenbrun, who produces various audiophile components in Scotland under the name of Linn Products. The name Isobarik comes from a term that means "constant pressure". See push-pull.
Kilohertz (kHz) - one thousand hertz.
Le - the inductance of a driver's voice coil, typically measured at 1 kHz in millihenries (mH).
Low-Pass Filter - an electric circuit designed to pass only low frequencies. See Band-pass and High-pass filters.
Lobing - the tendency of a speaker system that consists of more than one driver to produce a lobed frequency response in space with in-phase reinforcement (lobes) from the various drivers occurring at some elevations and out-of-phase opposition (nulls) at points between the lobes.
Maximum power rating - a value which means almost nothing, but is used nonetheless by manufacturers to entice the unsuspecting into purchasing their product based solely on the big number. Technically, it is the maximum wattage that an audio component can deliver/handle as a brief burst during a musical peak. Most reputable manufacturers will provide both an RMS and Max power rating. Typically, the given value for the maximum power rating is twice to three times that of RMS. Automotive head units are a good example of this shady technique, as all the ones I have ever seen use this rating for the built in amplifier output. Use RMS for determining real world equipment capabilities. See WLS.
Microfarads (mF) - a measurement of capacitance.
Midbass - mid level bass, usually frequencies just above the sub-bass range, from around 100 - 400 Hz or so.
Midrange (mids) - the frequency range above bass but below treble that carries most of the identifying tones of music or speech. It is usually from 300 - 400 Hz to 3kHz or so.
Millihenries (mH) - a measurement of inductance.
Mms - the moving mass of a driver assembly.
Mono - monophonic sound. A method for reproducing sound where the signals from all directions or sources are blended into a single channel.
MOSFET - Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors. Used in most modern, quality car audio amplifiers in the power supply (and sometimes in the output stage). MOSFET's run cooler than normal bipolar transistors, and have a faster switching speed.
Noise - any undesirable sound reproduced in an audio system.
Noise Floor - In an electronic device, the sound level of undesired sounds generated by the device itself. How loud the background static generated by a device is. (All audio gear produces some amount of noise due to the thermal properties of components.)
Octave - a range of tones where the highest tone occurs at twice the frequency of the lowest tone.
Ohm - a unit of electrical resistance or impedance.
Ohm's Law - a basic law of electric circuits. It states that the current [I] in amperes in a circuit is equal to the voltage [E] in volts divided by the resistance [R] in ohms; thus, I = E/R.
Out of Phase - when your speakers are mounted in reverse polarity, i.e., one speaker is wired +/+ and -/- from the amp and the other is wired +/- and -/+. Bass response will be very thin due to cancellation.
Output - the sound level produced by a loudspeaker.
Passive Crossover - uses inductors (coils) and capacitors to direct proper frequencies to appropriate drivers. These crossover systems can be simple (First Order = 1 component @ -6 dB/octave slope) to complex (Fourth Order = 4 components @ -24 dB/octave slope).
Passive Radiator - a device that looks just like an ordinary driver, except it has no magnet or voice coil. A radiator is usually a highly compliant device, with a similar cone material and surround found on regular active drivers. The radiator must usually be at least as large (or larger) than the driver it is aligned with. The passive radiator is tuned to Fb and used in place of a port, providing bass reinforcement for the driver in a similar fashion as any regular ported box. A clear advantage of the radiator is the absence of port noise, and some audiophiles claim the radiator provides a better sounding bass than a ported enclosure. Disadvantages include difficulty in tuning, and the extra required baffle area for the radiator. Most radiators can be tuned with either weights or silicone, adding material in a balanced manner until Fb is attained.
Pe - Driver's rated RMS power handling capability.
Peak - the maximum amplitude of a voltage or current.
Peak power rating - see Maximum power rating.
Peak-to-Peak power rating - a totally unreliable value of rating power amplifiers, often 4 times (or more!) the actual RMS output. See WLS.
Phase - a point in time (instant) on a waveform cycle. A complete cycle is defined as 360 degrees of phase
Phase Coherence - the relationship and timing of sounds that come from different drivers (subs, mids, tweets) mounted in different locations in the vehicle.
Phase Shift - The change in phase of a periodic signal with respect to a reference.
Phase Distortion - a type of audible distortion caused by time delay between various parts of the signal; can be caused by equalizers.
phon - unit of perceived loudness level LN for pure tones[1]. The purpose of the phon scale is to compensate for the effect of frequency on the perceived loudness of tones[2]. By definition, 1 phon is equal to 1 dBSPL at a frequency of 1 kHz[3]. The Fletcher-Munson curves are a way of mapping the dBSPL of a pure tone to the perceived loudness level in phons.
Polarity - the orientation of magnetic or electric fields. The polarity of the incoming audio signal determines the direction of movement of the speaker cone. Must be observed when wiring speakers, so that they are "in phase". See Out of Phase.
Ported Enclosure - a type of speaker enclosure that uses a duct or port to improve efficiency at low frequencies. Excellent design for lower power systems, as the port often adds up to +3 dB to low frequency efficiency. F3 can be set considerably lower with proper design, although low frequency roll-off is generally -24 dB/octave. Good transient response with proper tuning, although the driver loses damping below the tuning frequency. Excellent power handling about Fb, but source material or frequencies below Fb cause the driver to progressively Portedperform as if it were not enclosed at all. Due to this, ported enclosures without a low frequency filter may have lower power handling compared to other designs. More difficult to properly build and tune than a sealed enclosure, with several "optimum" alignments available depending upon the Qts of the driver. I highly recommend Vance Dickason's "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook," which goes into great detail concerning the different possible alignments of ported enclosures. The best way to model these alignments is with a software program, where changes in tuning and enclosure size can be immediately noted. Though it can be dated to the 1930's, the ported alignments were thoroughly researched and standardized by A.N. Thiele in the 60's and R. Small in the 70's. This work was further expanded by D.B. Keele and others.
Power (P) - the time rate of doing work or the rate at which energy is used. One equation for Power:
P = Volts^2 / Impedance
Power Line Capacitor - wired inline on the power lead with your car amp, this device stores current for instant release when short bursts of energy are needed to produce loud, deep bass notes. Best to mount as close to amp as possible.
Pressure Effect - in sealed box designs, the pressure build-up on one side of the cone which may cause non-linearity and inhibit dynamic range in the low bass.Sunfire True Subwoofer
Push-Pull Configuration - one driver is mounted normally, the second is mounted so that it faces into the enclosure, both sharing the same internal volume and wired out of phase with one another. Although electrically out of phase with one another, the drivers are acoustically in phase since they move in the same direction. This alignment theoretically reduces second order harmonic distortion. Bob Carver has done a great deal of research into this area, and has manufactured the Sunfire True Subwoofer, a unique push-pull design that utilizes a special passive radiator. Check out the white paper description! Wow!
Q - the magnification of resonance factor of any resonant device or circuit. A driver with a high Q is more resonant than one with a low Q.
Qes - the electrical Q of the driver.
Qms - the mechanical Q of the driver.
Qts - the total Q of the driver at Fs. Qts = Qes x Qms/Qes + Qms.
Qtc - value for the damping provided for a driver in a sealed enclosure. Denotes the enclosures ability to control the driver response at resonance. Qtc = 0.707 is the optimum value for sealed enclosures, providing flattest response and highest SPL for deep bass extension. Enclosures for this value are often rather large. Lower Qtc can give even better transient response, down to a Qtc of 0.577 for the best damping and transients, but the enclosure is usually huge and SPL's are down. A Qtc of 1.0 is a compromise between deep bass and transient response vs. smaller sized enclosure. Larger subs can go with an even higher Qtc, as their resonant frequency is often very low, but Qtc's above 1.5 can begin to sound very muddled and boomy, and sacrifice deep bass extension and transient response for enhanced mid-bass peaks (louder). Check out Enclosure Dilemma: Ported vs. Sealed, an article on this web site that gives more information about Qtc.
Rear fill - in autosound, the ambience created by a pair of rear speakers that helps complete the soundstage. A set of high quality components for the front powered by an external amp and a set of coax mounted on the rear deck powered by the head unit or small amp is a good example of a rear fill application. Rear fill speakers should be faded so that they create a richer ambience, but you should not be able to isolate any sounds coming from them.
Resonance - the tendency of a speaker to vibrate most at a particular frequency.
Resonance Frequency - the frequency at which any system vibrates naturally when excited by a stimulus.
Resistance (Re) - in electrical or electronic circuits, a characteristic of a material that opposes the flow of electrons. Speakers have resistance that opposes current.
RMS - an acronym for "root mean square." Used in audio to help rate the continuous power output of an amplifier or input capability of speakers. This is the preferred method for comparing anything in audio applications.
Robinson and Dadson - in 1956, became the basis for an ISO standard ISO 226 which was only revised recently regarding the Equal Loudness Contour
Roll-off (cut-off) - the attenuation that occurs at the lower or upper frequency range of a driver, network, or system. The roll-off frequency is usually defined as the frequency where response is reduced by -3 dB.
S or (Q') - the overall damping of a 4th order bandpass enclosure. i.e., if you were to figure a 4th order bandpass enclosure with a Qtc of 0.70 for Vr (the sealed chamber), then you would also figure Vf (ported chamber) with an S of 0.70. See Useful Conversions and Formulas for more information and the formulas involved.
Sd - effective piston area of a driver.
Sealed enclosure - air tight enclosure that completely isolates the back wave of the Sealeddriver from the front. Very tight, defined sound (with Qtc = 0.707) with very good transient response and power handling. Low frequency roll-off is at -12 dB/octave. Less efficient than other designs, and higher distortion levels at resonance. Easy to design and build. Originally this design was pioneered and marketed by companies like Acoustic Research. See Qtc.
Signal - the desired portion of electrical information.
Signal-to-noise (S/N) - the ratio, expressed in dB, between the signal and noise.
Sine wave - the waveform of a pure alternating current or voltage. It deviates about a zero point to a positive value and a negative value. Audio signals are sine waves or combinations of sine waves.
Single Reflex Bandpass Enclosure - sometimes called a 4th order bandpass. A design where the driver is completely "buried" in the enclosure, mounted in a4th Order Bandpass sealed chamber (Vr) and firing into a second ported chamber with the sound emanating from one or more ports. This second chamber (Vf) is tuned to the sealed drivers Fcb. Band-pass enclosures pass only a limited range of frequencies, negating the need for crossovers in the circuit. In a typical single reflex bandpass, the cutoff rate below and above the "pass-band" is at a rate of -12dB/octave. These designs are very efficient within the operating bandwidth, with superior power handling, but generally inferior transient response to sealed (all the sound has to come out of the vent). Transient response can be very good if the enclosure is configured with a S of 0.70. Can be very difficult to design and build. These enclosures have been around since the 1950's, and companies like KEF helped pioneer the manufacture and marketing of this design. See also Dual reflex bandpass.
Skin Effect - technically, a physical phenomenon that relates to the limited penetration into a conductor of an RadioFrequent signal according to its frequency. In a direct current case everything is constant and so nothing seems to happen. With an alternating current, however, there is a delay in the magnetic field's response to the change in current and the 'old' magnetic field tends to push the current towards the outside of the conductor. As the frequency increases, so does the effect until at very high frequencies the entire current flows in a very narrow skin on the conductor - hence the name. Skin effect is negligable in car audio applications. (The full article can be found here). Thanks Wim!
Sound Pressure Level (SPL) - the loudness of an acoustic wave stated in dB that is proportional to the logarithm of its intensity.
Sound Stage - the sound systems ability to correctly place instruments on an imaginary soundstage; reproduction of the way the music would sound if you were actually watching the musicians play in front of you. The stage should always appear to be in front of you, with a proper "image" of where each musician is playing on the imaginary soundstage.
Spider - the flexible material that supports the former, voice coil, and inside portion of the cone within the speaker frame.
Standing wave - a buildup of sound level at a particular frequency that is dependent upon the dimensions of a resonant room, car interior, or enclosure. It occurs when the rate of energy loss equals the rate of energy input into the system. This is what you hear when you listen into a sea shell.
Sub-bass - portion of bass that is very low, usually from 20 Hz - 100 Hz or so.
Subwoofer - a loudspeaker designed to reproduce sub-bass frequencies.
Surround (suspension) - the outer suspension of a speaker cone; holds the diaphragm in place but allows it to move when activated. Usually made of foam or rubber.
Surround Sound - usually representative of the monophonic sound extracted from the stereo signal sent to smaller rear or side speakers used in a home theater.
Thiele/Small parameters - numbers that specify the behaviour of drivers, as defined and analyzed by two engineers, Neville Thiele and Richard Small. See Driver Parameters.
Three-way - a type of speaker system composed of three ranges of speakers, specifically a woofer, midrange, and tweeter.
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) - the percentage, in relation to a pure input signal, of harmonically derived frequencies introduced in the sound reproducing circuitry and hi-fi equipment (including speakers).
Transient Response - the ability of a speaker to respond to any sudden change in the signal without blurring (smearing) the sound.Panga Ribbon Transmission Line Loudspeaker
Transmission Line Enclosure - a design in which the driver is at one end of the enclosure, with an internal path which consists of a series of bends or curves that lead to a port at the other end of the enclosure. The path length is a fraction of the wavelength at low frequencies. The length of the path is increased by stuffing the box with either long fiber wool or polyester batting, and produces a phase shift in the back wave that reinforces bass at low frequencies. Enclosures must be very large, but low end response of these systems is legendary among audiophiles. Drivers with Qts of less than 0.4 that work well in ported should work well in these designs, but no standardized method for configuring these enclosures exists that engineers have yet to agree upon. Power handling is generally less than in other designs, but drivers may be capable of responding down to Fs. One of the most difficult enclosures to design and build, and much experimentation may be necessary to get things right. "Labyrinths" and "Tapered (Stuffed) Pipes"are both variants of this type of enclosure. Check out the Panga transmission line speaker manufactured by Davidson Loudspeakers.
Treble (highs) - the upper end of the audio spectrum reproduced by tweeters, usually 3 - 4 kHz and up.
Triaxial driver - a speaker that is composed of three individual voice coils and cones; used for the reproduction of sounds in three segments of the sound spectrum.
Tri-way output - when a special passive crossover is used with an automotive amplifier to safely power a subwoofer in bridged mono (low pass circuit) as well as a pair of stereo speakers (high pass circuit). Normal inductors and capacitors can be used for Tri-way output.
Tweeter - a speaker designed to reproduce the high or treble range of the sound spectrum.
Two-way - a type of speaker system composed of two ranges of speakers, usually a woofer and tweeter.
Vas - the equivalent volume of compliance, which specifies a volume of air having the same compliance as the suspension system of a driver.
Vb - total box volume, usually in cubic feet or liters. Used specifically in sealed and ported designs.
Vf - front volume of a bandpass design.
Vr - rear volume of a bandpass design.
Voice coil - the wire wound around the speaker former. The former is mechanically connected to the speaker cone and causes the cone to vibrate in response to the audio current in the voice coil.
Volt (E) - a unit of measurement used to measure how much "pressure" is used to force electricity through a circuit.
Watt - a unit of electrical power. A watt of electrical power is the use of one joule of energy per second. Watts of electrical power equals volts times amperes.
Wavelength - the length of a sound wave in air. It can be found for any frequency by dividing the speed of sound in air (1120 feet per second) by the frequency of the sound, or: WL = 1120 / Freq.
Whizzer - a small supplementary cone attached to the center of the speaker's main cone for the purpose of increasing high frequency response.
WLS - When Lightning Strikes. The power ratings that you see provided on head units or cheap amps and stereo equipment that means absolutely nothing. If you see equipment with an impossible exaggerated rating, just say no. OK, I made this one up, but I think it is rather appropriate. Maybe the Federal Trade Commission will see this page…
Woofer - a bass loudspeaker designed to reproduce low-frequency sound only. A woofer and subwoofer are usually the same type of loudspeaker, but their application (crossover frequency) differentiates them.
XLR - Developed by ITT/Cannon, XLRs are rugged, locking, multi-pin connectors frequently used in professional audio equipment. While 3-pin XLRs are most commonly seen on microphones and console inputs, other configurations also exist, such as 4-pin XLRs (a standard for stage intercom systems) and 5-pin XLRs (often used on stereo microphones).
Xmax - maximum linear cone excursion of a driver, measured in inches or millimeters. Check out what JL Audio has to say about Xmax and acoustic output relationships!
*definitions sourced from different audio websites
car audio: midbass
Midbass frequencies are usually from 80hz - 200hz. This is actually a very wide frequency range because it kinda covers sub-bass and kinda hits the vocal part of songs...
According to this: (taken from the EQ setting thread)
100hz( usually mid bass)
this is the hard bass sound, it gives drums that solid feel, boosting here will harden the drums/bass guitar, as well as adding warmth to guitars. A cut will reduce boom on guitar and add clarity.
200hz (either midbass/mid)
Boost to add warmth to vocals and guitar, reduce to clean up vocals
How to get more midbass:
1. Make sure that the frequency you want to hear is really within the midbass frequencies; you might be wanting to hear sub bass from your midbass, eh.
2. Set your X-over settings just right... 80hz to 200hz... or the lowest freq your midbass can actually handle.
3. Tweak your EQ settings to boost or cut the right frequencies... check this thread out --> http://www.kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9024
4. Deaden your doors
5. Try making an enclosure for your midbass speakers (it worked for me anyway)
According to this: (taken from the EQ setting thread)
100hz( usually mid bass)
this is the hard bass sound, it gives drums that solid feel, boosting here will harden the drums/bass guitar, as well as adding warmth to guitars. A cut will reduce boom on guitar and add clarity.
200hz (either midbass/mid)
Boost to add warmth to vocals and guitar, reduce to clean up vocals
How to get more midbass:
1. Make sure that the frequency you want to hear is really within the midbass frequencies; you might be wanting to hear sub bass from your midbass, eh.
2. Set your X-over settings just right... 80hz to 200hz... or the lowest freq your midbass can actually handle.
3. Tweak your EQ settings to boost or cut the right frequencies... check this thread out --> http://www.kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9024
4. Deaden your doors
5. Try making an enclosure for your midbass speakers (it worked for me anyway)
car audio: EQ settings
"I shall work through the frequencies rather than the instruements, as this will allow us to see where there are complimentary frequencies (different instruments produce the same sound).
50hz (usually sub bass)
this freq is where all the boom is, if you want more boom on foot drums and bass guitar, boost, to reduce, cut.
100hz( usually mid bass)
this is the hard bass sound, it gives drums that solid feel, boosting here will harden the drums/bass guitar, as well as adding warmth to guitars. A cut will reduce boom on guitar and add clarity.
200hz (either midbass/mid)
Boost to add warmth to vocals and guitar, reduce to clean up vocals
400hz (usually mid / large Horn)
Boost to bass in general, reduce to decrease cardboard sound low drums.
800hz(usually mid/horns)
Boost to add clarity and Punch to bass, this is the one that digs you in the ribs , cut to reduce tinnyness to guitars
1.5khz (mid/tweet/horns)
Boost to add clarity to bass guitar, reduce to impreve dullness of guitar
3khz (mid/tweet/horns)
Boost to increase pluck on bass guitar, attack on guitar and high drums, increases clarity of vocals.
Cut to reduce breathy sound on vocals.
5khz(mid/tweet/horns)
boost for vocal presence, low drum attack, piano attack, and guitars, reduce to distance background.
7khz(usually tweet/horn)
boost, more attack on low drums, percussion and bring life to dull vocals, also sharpen elctric guitar
Cut to reduce siblance
10khz (tweet/horn)
increase to brighten vocals/guitar and piano
cut to reduce siblance
15khz (tweet/horn)
increase to brighten vocals/guitar and piano highs
Right, looking down this list we can see that if we want a good solid bass line ( add @100hz), that's not boomy (cut @ 50hz), with good punch (add @ 800hz), with good attack ( boost at 5-7khz), most of the action is in the midbass and midrange area, with only boominess being in the sub area.
Understanding these frequencies also allows for fine tuning things like stage height (more attack of drums gives perception of a higher stage), and adding depth, ( make background sounds more distant)
This is not really even an introduction apparantly, and I thought I was doing well when I understood this lot, but there's more, so much more.....
Hope this helps
50hz (usually sub bass)
this freq is where all the boom is, if you want more boom on foot drums and bass guitar, boost, to reduce, cut.
100hz( usually mid bass)
this is the hard bass sound, it gives drums that solid feel, boosting here will harden the drums/bass guitar, as well as adding warmth to guitars. A cut will reduce boom on guitar and add clarity.
200hz (either midbass/mid)
Boost to add warmth to vocals and guitar, reduce to clean up vocals
400hz (usually mid / large Horn)
Boost to bass in general, reduce to decrease cardboard sound low drums.
800hz(usually mid/horns)
Boost to add clarity and Punch to bass, this is the one that digs you in the ribs , cut to reduce tinnyness to guitars
1.5khz (mid/tweet/horns)
Boost to add clarity to bass guitar, reduce to impreve dullness of guitar
3khz (mid/tweet/horns)
Boost to increase pluck on bass guitar, attack on guitar and high drums, increases clarity of vocals.
Cut to reduce breathy sound on vocals.
5khz(mid/tweet/horns)
boost for vocal presence, low drum attack, piano attack, and guitars, reduce to distance background.
7khz(usually tweet/horn)
boost, more attack on low drums, percussion and bring life to dull vocals, also sharpen elctric guitar
Cut to reduce siblance
10khz (tweet/horn)
increase to brighten vocals/guitar and piano
cut to reduce siblance
15khz (tweet/horn)
increase to brighten vocals/guitar and piano highs
Right, looking down this list we can see that if we want a good solid bass line ( add @100hz), that's not boomy (cut @ 50hz), with good punch (add @ 800hz), with good attack ( boost at 5-7khz), most of the action is in the midbass and midrange area, with only boominess being in the sub area.
Understanding these frequencies also allows for fine tuning things like stage height (more attack of drums gives perception of a higher stage), and adding depth, ( make background sounds more distant)
This is not really even an introduction apparantly, and I thought I was doing well when I understood this lot, but there's more, so much more.....
Hope this helps
car audio:how to prevent noise
For the past six weeks you've worked relentlessly on the competition sound system in your vehicle. Your checking account is bone dry, and to top it off, your girlfriend is about to leave you for want of attention. In the past 72 hours you've redefined the word sacrifice. Lack of sleep has forced you into another dimension; a dimension where sight and sound take on new meaning. It's 6 A.M. and judging begins in just two hours. Final connections are made, equalization and crossover points are set, and a good balance of front stage - rear fill has been achieved. You reach for the keys and turn the ignition. As the engine purrs to life, a high pitched whine assaults the ears. NOISE!
Does this remind you of a nightmare you had one night after consuming a bottle of cheap wine and a pepperoni pizza? Nightmare or not, the above story is a true one that cost me first place and a five thousand dollar purse. From that day on I've sort of had a personal vendetta against noise.
For those of you who are wondering what noise is, I like to define it as any sound reproduced by the loudspeakers that is not present in the source material. Alternator whine, amp swizzle, ignition noise, turn on thump, and system noise are just a few examples that come to mind. In the following paragraphs I will outline each of these noises and the symptoms associated with them as well as some possible causes and remedies. Before we begin, however, let's review the TEN COMMANDMENTS of noise free installation.
The Ten Commandments
I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.
II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.
III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.
IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.
V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.
VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.
VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.
VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.
IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is obtained.
X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter. And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not required.
About now most of you are probably making strange faces and saying "Now you tell me!" Well, all is not lost. If you have already installed your auto sound system and are unfortunate enough to have some noise, here are a few suggestions on where to look and what to do.
Alternator Whine
To me, alternator whine is the most annoying form of noise. For those of you who are lucky enough never to have been exposed to alternator whine, it sounds like a miniature siren that rises in pitch with the speed of the engine. Alternator whine is almost always caused by a ground loop. The following steps will aid you in locating and correcting a ground loop problem.
Verify that all levels are set properly. (Click here for related article.)
With the system turned off, unplug the RCA inputs to the amplifier.
Start the vehicle and turn the system on. If the noise is gone go to step 8. If the noise is still present, it is coming from the amp or the speaker wiring. Continue.
Turn the system off and disconnect the speaker harness.
Start the engine and verify that no noise is present. In a few rare instances, I have actually heard speakers reproduce noise without being connected to an amplifier. This noise was being induced by power cables that were very close to the speaker wire. If you do have this type of noise, reroute the appropriate speaker lead and go to step 3.
With the speaker harness still disconnected, check to make sure there are no shorts between the speaker leads and the chassis of the vehicle. A shorted negative speaker lead will create a ground loop by establishing a second audio ground reference point. If you do have a short, trace the wire out and repair it then go to step 3.
With the RCA inputs and speaker harness still disconnected from the amplifier, use your VOM to measure from the shield of the RCA jacks on the amp to the chassis of the vehicle. This reading should not be a direct short (100 ohms or more is acceptable.) If this reading does indicate a direct short, you might have a defective amp and should contact the manufacturer for verification. (Note that there are a few "inexpensive" amps or boosters on the market that have their audio ground and electrical ground commoned internally. For units of this type, the information in this article will be of very little value.)
If you've made it here, you know that the amplifier and speaker wiring are okay.
Connect the accessories in front of the amp (crossovers, equalizers, etc.) one at a time and check for alternator whine. When each device is tested, there should be nothing plugged into the input of that device. In this way, we will work toward the source unit piece by piece. Be sure to turn the system power off before connecting or disconnecting any cables or accessories.
Repeat step 9 until all accessories have been tested.
If a particular accessory is causing noise, try disconnecting it's power ground wire. Go to step 9.
Now it's time to connect the source unit. Do that now and test for noise.
If noise is present, try unplugging the antenna. If the noise goes away, you will need to use an antenna isolator. This little gismo opens the shield wire of the coax to eliminate the ground loop caused by the ground at the antenna.
If you still have noise, try connecting the source unit's ground wire in another location,. preferably as close to the source unit as possible.
Does the noise vary in amplitude when you adjust the volume control? If it does, the problem is probably power line related and not a ground loop. If this is the case, run the source unit's B+ (yellow) wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. If this doesn't do the trick, you will probably have to use a power line filter on the source unit's B+ (Yel) and Ignition (Red) wires.
Ignition Noise
Ignition noise is another type of noise that is quite annoying. It usually sounds like a popping or buzzing sound whenever the engine is running. The best cure is to remove the motor but since we can't do that, we will have to rely on some other form of remedy. Follow the steps below to eliminate or reduce ignition noise.
Make sure you are using resistor type spark plugs and resistor type plug wires.
Determine where the noise is coming from. If the noise is a popping sound that occurs 2 or 3 times a second, you probably have a loose or bad plug wire. First, make sure that all plug wires are seated properly. If this doesn't do the trick, you may have a bad plug wire. Usually this occurs due to a pinhole in the insulation of the wire. Whenever the plug wire is energized, an arc jumps through the pinhole to the chassis of the vehicle. Replace with silicone resistor plug wires.
If the noise is a buzzing sound, the problem is usually associated with the points, distributor, or coil. Try replacing the condenser on both the coil and points. Make sure all plug wires are seated properly in the distributor cap. Additionally, you might try adding a 2200 uF cap from the positive terminal on the coil to chassis ground.
Don't use the fuse block in the vehicle to derive power for the source unit. Run the Constant Hot B+ (memory) wire directly to the battery's positive terminal.
If you still have noise, it could be occurring because of induction. Try pulling the source unit out of the dash and check for noise. If the noise is eliminated, try rerouting any wiring harnesses that are close to the deck. If this is not possible, try using self adhesive metal shielding. This might just do the trick.
Turn On/Off Thump
Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.
Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.)
Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.
If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.
This concludes the section on turn on thump.
System Hiss
Hiss is usually most noticeable over the midrange and tweeters. The reasons for this are simple. The human ear is more sensitive to the frequencies reproduced by these drivers. Mids and tweets are usually far more efficient than their low frequency counterparts. And, these drivers are usually mounted closer to the listener. If you have hiss, you probably have your levels set improperly. See rule 9 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.
While I know that I haven't covered all the forms of noise or even all of the methods of dealing with it, I hope that I've made a good start. By adhering to the Ten Commandments and investing a little persistence, you will be rewarded with a noise free installation.
Does this remind you of a nightmare you had one night after consuming a bottle of cheap wine and a pepperoni pizza? Nightmare or not, the above story is a true one that cost me first place and a five thousand dollar purse. From that day on I've sort of had a personal vendetta against noise.
For those of you who are wondering what noise is, I like to define it as any sound reproduced by the loudspeakers that is not present in the source material. Alternator whine, amp swizzle, ignition noise, turn on thump, and system noise are just a few examples that come to mind. In the following paragraphs I will outline each of these noises and the symptoms associated with them as well as some possible causes and remedies. Before we begin, however, let's review the TEN COMMANDMENTS of noise free installation.
The Ten Commandments
I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.
II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.
III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.
IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.
V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.
VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.
VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.
VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.
IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is obtained.
X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter. And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not required.
About now most of you are probably making strange faces and saying "Now you tell me!" Well, all is not lost. If you have already installed your auto sound system and are unfortunate enough to have some noise, here are a few suggestions on where to look and what to do.
Alternator Whine
To me, alternator whine is the most annoying form of noise. For those of you who are lucky enough never to have been exposed to alternator whine, it sounds like a miniature siren that rises in pitch with the speed of the engine. Alternator whine is almost always caused by a ground loop. The following steps will aid you in locating and correcting a ground loop problem.
Verify that all levels are set properly. (Click here for related article.)
With the system turned off, unplug the RCA inputs to the amplifier.
Start the vehicle and turn the system on. If the noise is gone go to step 8. If the noise is still present, it is coming from the amp or the speaker wiring. Continue.
Turn the system off and disconnect the speaker harness.
Start the engine and verify that no noise is present. In a few rare instances, I have actually heard speakers reproduce noise without being connected to an amplifier. This noise was being induced by power cables that were very close to the speaker wire. If you do have this type of noise, reroute the appropriate speaker lead and go to step 3.
With the speaker harness still disconnected, check to make sure there are no shorts between the speaker leads and the chassis of the vehicle. A shorted negative speaker lead will create a ground loop by establishing a second audio ground reference point. If you do have a short, trace the wire out and repair it then go to step 3.
With the RCA inputs and speaker harness still disconnected from the amplifier, use your VOM to measure from the shield of the RCA jacks on the amp to the chassis of the vehicle. This reading should not be a direct short (100 ohms or more is acceptable.) If this reading does indicate a direct short, you might have a defective amp and should contact the manufacturer for verification. (Note that there are a few "inexpensive" amps or boosters on the market that have their audio ground and electrical ground commoned internally. For units of this type, the information in this article will be of very little value.)
If you've made it here, you know that the amplifier and speaker wiring are okay.
Connect the accessories in front of the amp (crossovers, equalizers, etc.) one at a time and check for alternator whine. When each device is tested, there should be nothing plugged into the input of that device. In this way, we will work toward the source unit piece by piece. Be sure to turn the system power off before connecting or disconnecting any cables or accessories.
Repeat step 9 until all accessories have been tested.
If a particular accessory is causing noise, try disconnecting it's power ground wire. Go to step 9.
Now it's time to connect the source unit. Do that now and test for noise.
If noise is present, try unplugging the antenna. If the noise goes away, you will need to use an antenna isolator. This little gismo opens the shield wire of the coax to eliminate the ground loop caused by the ground at the antenna.
If you still have noise, try connecting the source unit's ground wire in another location,. preferably as close to the source unit as possible.
Does the noise vary in amplitude when you adjust the volume control? If it does, the problem is probably power line related and not a ground loop. If this is the case, run the source unit's B+ (yellow) wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery. If this doesn't do the trick, you will probably have to use a power line filter on the source unit's B+ (Yel) and Ignition (Red) wires.
Ignition Noise
Ignition noise is another type of noise that is quite annoying. It usually sounds like a popping or buzzing sound whenever the engine is running. The best cure is to remove the motor but since we can't do that, we will have to rely on some other form of remedy. Follow the steps below to eliminate or reduce ignition noise.
Make sure you are using resistor type spark plugs and resistor type plug wires.
Determine where the noise is coming from. If the noise is a popping sound that occurs 2 or 3 times a second, you probably have a loose or bad plug wire. First, make sure that all plug wires are seated properly. If this doesn't do the trick, you may have a bad plug wire. Usually this occurs due to a pinhole in the insulation of the wire. Whenever the plug wire is energized, an arc jumps through the pinhole to the chassis of the vehicle. Replace with silicone resistor plug wires.
If the noise is a buzzing sound, the problem is usually associated with the points, distributor, or coil. Try replacing the condenser on both the coil and points. Make sure all plug wires are seated properly in the distributor cap. Additionally, you might try adding a 2200 uF cap from the positive terminal on the coil to chassis ground.
Don't use the fuse block in the vehicle to derive power for the source unit. Run the Constant Hot B+ (memory) wire directly to the battery's positive terminal.
If you still have noise, it could be occurring because of induction. Try pulling the source unit out of the dash and check for noise. If the noise is eliminated, try rerouting any wiring harnesses that are close to the deck. If this is not possible, try using self adhesive metal shielding. This might just do the trick.
Turn On/Off Thump
Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.
Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.)
Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.
If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.
This concludes the section on turn on thump.
System Hiss
Hiss is usually most noticeable over the midrange and tweeters. The reasons for this are simple. The human ear is more sensitive to the frequencies reproduced by these drivers. Mids and tweets are usually far more efficient than their low frequency counterparts. And, these drivers are usually mounted closer to the listener. If you have hiss, you probably have your levels set improperly. See rule 9 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.
While I know that I haven't covered all the forms of noise or even all of the methods of dealing with it, I hope that I've made a good start. By adhering to the Ten Commandments and investing a little persistence, you will be rewarded with a noise free installation.
try this tutorial for audiophiles
found a neat site for subwhooper enclosure tutorial
http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/theories.html
http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/theories.html
wrestling bloopers i watched
do you watch professional wrestling as much as i do?
well dont try this at home
well dont try this at home
Saturday, April 7, 2007
deh-5850mp
This unit is installed in the feroza
Pioneer - DEH-5850MP - MP3 WMA CD Player
4 x 50 W - MP3 WMA CD Receiver
Highlighted Features:
S-105 Mechanism
MP3 WMA and WAV Files Playback
AAC Files Playback
CD-R and CD-RW Playback
ID3 Tag Recognition
BMX - Bi Metric Equalizer
Digital Compression Selection
1- Bit D/A Converter 8fs Digital Filter
Including Remote
Flip-Down Face
easter eggs
Materials
Egg blower12 eggsSeveral mixing bowls, shallow and deepMeasuring spoonsLiquid measuring cupWhite vinegarFood coloringSpoon and forkOlive oilPaper towels
How to Marbleize
With an egg blower, which is available at crafts stores, pierce the top and bottom of each egg, puncturing the yolk; carefully expel the contents. Rinse, and let dry.
1. In a small mixing bowl, combine 3 cups warm water, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and 10 to 20 drops of food coloring. Place egg in dye, and leave it submerged until it turns the desired shade.
2. In a wide, shallow bowl, prepare a second batch of dye -- which will provide the swirls -- in a darker shade or a different color. Liquid should be no deeper than one half-inch. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Run a fork through this mixture, creating curlicues of oil on the surface.
3. As oil swirls, place dyed egg in mixture, and roll it once around the bowl to pick up oil streaks (below left; remove the egg.
4. Gently pat egg with a paper towel.
5. Let it dry. You can experiment with color combinations: Vary the base tints and the swirls to achieve striking contrasts, subtle shadings, or multihued richness.
1997 my honda city "pokpok " my sedan
This is my 1997 honda city EXI [sx8 ] body, [in stock virgin form] got this Apr.1999 at only Php.150T "AS IS" and is actually my 1st low end honda.
As months passed by I began to save some money from my buy & sell biz., realizing that its imposible for me to buy a bnew car..I stayed with this car and named her "POKPOK" her, bec she is slow, white as snow, clean, compact sedan.'pokpok' bec back then, i use this car to date quite a lot of friends.
I decided not to sell my SX8 bec of its one advantage over other 1.3 liter compact sedans... fuel economy
i bought my sx8 to talisay to go sight seing went to antipolo and back to caloocan i thought my fuel "floater" is defective.. i was wrong.. it really is an econo-car
Exterior:
Red white taillights
lighting ststem: raybrig [upgraded wiring kit] incl front and rear foglamps
the rest are left stock.
interior:
basic ricey interior: indiglo,niken shiftknobs, pedals, shift boot, sterring knob[very ricey] but i nid this badly for parking...
sound: SPL
budget meal setup: targa-baric
headunit pioneer JVC DVD mp3 player
front targa x 502 rear targa x402 x695
subs targa x12 ported detachable enclosure
amps: v12 706 [drives the seps]
v12 1507 for subs
Friday, April 6, 2007
my tonka JR
"TONKA-JR"
There are cars that you drive to work and to the supermarket to the hills, through the waters to play...and there are cars that have become more than that: a faithful companion that is a part of your life. our 1972 converted Willy's Mc Arthur has been with us since 1972. we have been operating a business that requires extensive deliveries, customer visit rain or shine.. when we decide to part our 1972 owner jeep, we know its time to get a replacement.
After almost a yr of advertizing we finally sold our custom made 1973 willys mc arthur jeepster for just Php. 35,000, we then decided it was time for us have a spare car to drive against the elements of the unpredictable Philippine weather, since dad cant drive a sedan, we have no choise but to get a daihatsu Rocky known as a ferosa here in the Philippines.
There are cars that you drive to work and to the supermarket to the hills, through the waters to play...and there are cars that have become more than that: a faithful companion that is a part of your life. our 1972 converted Willy's Mc Arthur has been with us since 1972. we have been operating a business that requires extensive deliveries, customer visit rain or shine.. when we decide to part our 1972 owner jeep, we know its time to get a replacement.
After almost a yr of advertizing we finally sold our custom made 1973 willys mc arthur jeepster for just Php. 35,000, we then decided it was time for us have a spare car to drive against the elements of the unpredictable Philippine weather, since dad cant drive a sedan, we have no choise but to get a daihatsu Rocky known as a ferosa here in the Philippines.
"TONKA-JR" I got this car on May 23 2005, it was a 93 daihatsu rocky el of course, 2nd hand from a carexchange company in Mandaluyong. i got this one repainted already compltely bone stock with a defective [dunno what brand] tapedeck head unit and a pair of 6x9 speakers.
'Sound of Music' - FEROSA Project
I haven't made any Major Modifications except for the the audio system. It came with the stock 'pull out' stereo and 4speakers. If you know anything about how speakers were made back in the 90s you can imagine how bad these must have sounded to someone who enjoys quality music as much as I do. I've done extensive interior work fitting what I wanted in there, and it was WELL worth it.
'Sound of Music' - FEROSA Project
I haven't made any Major Modifications except for the the audio system. It came with the stock 'pull out' stereo and 4speakers. If you know anything about how speakers were made back in the 90s you can imagine how bad these must have sounded to someone who enjoys quality music as much as I do. I've done extensive interior work fitting what I wanted in there, and it was WELL worth it.
ive fitted a pioneer deh3550mp [mp3 player] for those long journeys, (a CD changer) converted VCD changer under the seats for video, a kenwood CB radio for use on trails; and a 12 speaker system. [2 pairs 6x9, 2 pairs of 6" mids 2 pairs of 8" subs+1 pair tweeter] all stealthly installed. with 2 amplifiers installed under the front and rear seats. a CB radio is also installed for use in places where cellular signal is out of reach.
The factory radio location in the dash was concealed in vinyl- covered wood panel this stealth headunit install is custom made as to deter any attempts of stealing the headunit [pioneer deh2750mp] when the ferosa is parked at high crime areas.
Adding what they called "ambience speakers" to the dash proved to be a challenge due to the absence of factory speaker cut- outs and the presence of airducts. we have to cut into some of the ducts to make the speakers fit.
tweeter was mounted at the top of each end of the dashboard, since the dash stock speaker location cant fit 4" seps, another pair of frontier 6x9 is custom mounted at each door panels for front staging. an additional 2pairs 6" midrange is also installed.
2 Amps under the rear seats again? yes. bec the ferosa is always parked in high crime area. thats why the amp is painted flat black.
Running out of room, I turned to just about the only place left in the rear of the Ferosa: the tailgate area where i placed one 8" PG subwooper in a sealed removable enclosure. wooden baffle for rear speakers was custom made to fit a pair of targa 6x9 on the right quarter panel side..
The factory radio location in the dash was concealed in vinyl- covered wood panel this stealth headunit install is custom made as to deter any attempts of stealing the headunit [pioneer deh2750mp] when the ferosa is parked at high crime areas.
Adding what they called "ambience speakers" to the dash proved to be a challenge due to the absence of factory speaker cut- outs and the presence of airducts. we have to cut into some of the ducts to make the speakers fit.
tweeter was mounted at the top of each end of the dashboard, since the dash stock speaker location cant fit 4" seps, another pair of frontier 6x9 is custom mounted at each door panels for front staging. an additional 2pairs 6" midrange is also installed.
2 Amps under the rear seats again? yes. bec the ferosa is always parked in high crime area. thats why the amp is painted flat black.
Running out of room, I turned to just about the only place left in the rear of the Ferosa: the tailgate area where i placed one 8" PG subwooper in a sealed removable enclosure. wooden baffle for rear speakers was custom made to fit a pair of targa 6x9 on the right quarter panel side..
ive fitted a pioneer deh3550mp [mp3 player] for those long journeys, (a CD changer) converted VCD changer under the seats for video, a kenwood CB radio for use on trails; and a 12 speaker system. [2 pairs 6x9, 2 pairs of 6" mids 2 pairs of 8" subs+1 pair tweeter] all stealthly installed. with 2 amplifiers installed under the front and rear seats. a CB radio is also installed for use in places where cellular signal is out of reach.
The factory radio location in the dash was concealed in vinyl- covered wood panel this stealth headunit install is custom made as to deter any attempts of stealing the headunit [pioneer deh2750mp] when the ferosa is parked at high crime areas.
Adding what they called "ambience speakers" to the dash proved to be a challenge due to the absence of factory speaker cut- outs and the presence of airducts. we have to cut into some of the ducts to make the speakers fit.
tweeter was mounted at the top of each end of the dashboard, since the dash stock speaker location cant fit 4" seps, another pair of frontier 6x9 is custom mounted at each door panels for front staging. an additional 2pairs 6" midrange is also installed.
2 Amps under the rear seats again? yes. bec the ferosa is always parked in high crime area. thats why the amp is painted flat black.
Running out of room, I turned to just about the only place left in the rear of the Ferosa: the tailgate area where i placed one 8" PG subwooper in a sealed removable enclosure. wooden baffle for rear speakers was custom made to fit a pair of targa 6x9 on the right quarter panel side..
The factory radio location in the dash was concealed in vinyl- covered wood panel this stealth headunit install is custom made as to deter any attempts of stealing the headunit [pioneer deh2750mp] when the ferosa is parked at high crime areas.
Adding what they called "ambience speakers" to the dash proved to be a challenge due to the absence of factory speaker cut- outs and the presence of airducts. we have to cut into some of the ducts to make the speakers fit.
tweeter was mounted at the top of each end of the dashboard, since the dash stock speaker location cant fit 4" seps, another pair of frontier 6x9 is custom mounted at each door panels for front staging. an additional 2pairs 6" midrange is also installed.
2 Amps under the rear seats again? yes. bec the ferosa is always parked in high crime area. thats why the amp is painted flat black.
Running out of room, I turned to just about the only place left in the rear of the Ferosa: the tailgate area where i placed one 8" PG subwooper in a sealed removable enclosure. wooden baffle for rear speakers was custom made to fit a pair of targa 6x9 on the right quarter panel side..
6/24/2005
The rear space is used for a 12" fenton sub on a ported detachable enclosure. this box is 'movable' and can be adjusted to for additional cargo space[in times of Delivery of supplies/goods], however if there are times wherein the rear passenger seats are usd[and not folded.] the box is removed completely detached and left at the ofc. this is the time to use another box located on the left rear quarter panel side which contained an 8" targa sub if I needed bass.
The rear space is used for a 12" fenton sub on a ported detachable enclosure. this box is 'movable' and can be adjusted to for additional cargo space[in times of Delivery of supplies/goods], however if there are times wherein the rear passenger seats are usd[and not folded.] the box is removed completely detached and left at the ofc. this is the time to use another box located on the left rear quarter panel side which contained an 8" targa sub if I needed bass.
june 2006
as i started my lanshop last sept 2005, modifications of my tonka was put to a halt since budget was concentrated all the and funds and resources was put to my lanshop.
from 2005-2006 here are some of the additional upgrades
1. rear backup lights, 2. front HID like fog lights 3. a new mp3 head unit with OEL display
4. blaupukt front 6" and 4" rear speakers
future upgrades this yr 2007 would be an HID kit good set of mags, carpet, and paint job
i know that dreams dont last forever, someday we might decide to sell the ferosa.... but in the meantime, we are enjoying it, as well as all the attention it receives. the audio system is constantly being improved. next time, ill add the video experience.
my budget SUV
Dimensions (l/w/h) 3705/1635/1725
Wheel base, mm 2175
Weight, kg 1250
Seats 4
Engine volume, cm^3 1589
Horse power/rot 105/6000
Rotating moment kg-m/rot 14.3/3500
This is my second ride, its 93 4x4 daihatsu ferosa [F300 / daihatsu rocky in other countries] bought repainted but all stock. here are some off road specs for stock feroza...
1. Final drive ratio, 5.29:1 ( no need to re gear when larger tires are installed).
2. ground clearance, 9 inches.
3. factory installed deep water wading kit for transmission and diffrentials.
4. Limited slip rear diffrentials factory installed.
5. water tight door seals water will not enter while moving in deep water.
6. excellent approach, departure and breakover angle's Hydraulic clutch engine fan for deepwater wading.
Here is the story of my other car.
to view my first car goto members.cardomain.com/dennisdko
QUICK FACTS
With its power steering, high driving position and small
turning circle it will get you into the smallest parking
spaces. Power aplenty is from a smooth and responsive 16 valve
1.6 liter gasoline engine (Multi-port fuel injected with
catalytic converter and carbureted on other models), packing
94.5 horsepower at 6000 RPM can make a zip in the highway and
out of crowded thoroughfares or through side streets. And
climbing power is from the engine with a maximum rated
torque of 126 Nm (12.9 kg/m) at 3500 RPM (94 lb-ft @ 4200 RPM
on EFI models), which pulls the Feroza that weighs merely
1650kg (2720 lbs.)
more pics at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/856417
DEN-R INTERNET vid : 1st floor action
some of he scenes taken atmy shop videos will best describe what happens everyday
2nd floor DEN-R
This video is taken during may 26, 2006 opening of my 2nd floor
with an initial of 10 PC
these videos... during operation
with an initial of 10 PC
these videos... during operation
tour of den-r
Currently DEN-R has 2 floors , each floor with 20 PCs. the whole bldg is 4 floors. i have a big plan for this establishment i want to complete 20PCs each floor and another 25PC at the back of the bldg. this will be a big rpoject ill depend on more customers who will be loyal to me
DEN-R during peak hours
everyday from Mon-Sat, this is what you see, people going online playing online games, surfing, research and other stffs like chatting making online friends.
I built DEN-R las Sept 5,2005 and its been almost 2 yrs now. with 40PCs 5 printer stations and 4 friendly staff with computer background to serve you.
This is my timer PC, i use CRS to monitor the time used ofmy client pcs this software is the first release so it can only control 32 pcs at a time. log, record the time used and every transaction.
at the backdrop is my diecast collection. i also collect diecast 1:18 holywood inspired toys.
more on this later....
above is the 24port switch and rounter. i have no cash register so i put eery coins, paper in a used can of cookies
here at my shop, everybody is happy, kids, teens alike
this is my diecast collection at the right side is where i house some of my 1:18 diecast cars
at the end is an f1 which what my shoprepresent- racing
black sat
its Black Sat. i opened up @730am
i recently joined feroza-ph yahoo group to keep updated on the latest in daihatsu feroza
i lovethis suv
bec of its honest to goodnest 4x4 and trail ready features
pix can b found at http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/feroza-ph/photos/browse/c52e
i do this everyday, surfing, posting [at forums]
www.ulop.net to participate and learnmore about my business
www.hondaclub.com.ph to know more about honda sx8 [honda city]
pinoydsl.net [for some technical questions and answers]
and friendster, and the new online community friendstayo.com
i recently joined feroza-ph yahoo group to keep updated on the latest in daihatsu feroza
i lovethis suv
bec of its honest to goodnest 4x4 and trail ready features
pix can b found at http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/feroza-ph/photos/browse/c52e
i do this everyday, surfing, posting [at forums]
www.ulop.net to participate and learnmore about my business
www.hondaclub.com.ph to know more about honda sx8 [honda city]
pinoydsl.net [for some technical questions and answers]
and friendster, and the new online community friendstayo.com
Thursday, April 5, 2007
my interview -ULOP.NET
Name: Dennis Dy Ko
Handle: dennisdko
B-day: June 26
I-café: DEN-R internet Cafe
Location: MCU, Caloocan
How Did You Start Your Lanshop Business? When?
Sept 5, 2005. with just 14 units. 400K capital. I consulted a fengsui expert and got his blessing. He advised me to open the shop on Sept 5, 2005 no more no less, with 2 wks time, I converted an old supposedly HAUNTED, dirty, rat infested rice storage house to one of the most talked about tambayans in MCU. I hired 2 team of carpenters, 2 electricians. I assembled, the PCs with the help of my brother and a neighbor. I also got scared of NBI and BSA so I invested. With the help of my relatives, and 2 banks, DEN-R internet was built. What is your worst experience as a LANshop Owner?On the first week of operation, I only offered internet because I don’t know what games to install, I’m a programmer not a gamer. Gamers keep coming in they asked for DOTA, CS, I dont understand. I only offered pacman and marvel vs capcom game first day, 400.00 sales. First week, 900 pesos sales/day. I went to the fengsui expect again for help. After a while, I surfed and joined ULOP.NET it changed the way I operated my lansop.
What do you enjoy about being a lanshop owner?
Its very, very challenging. Kung may problem sa network, kung matopak ung printer, kung may virus ung diskette, kung di mag run ang isang game, lahat kailangan hanapan nang solusyon.Kung may promo yung kakumpitensya mo, isip ka nang pangkontra. (Nagpa CS Source tournament sila. Nagsponsor kami dito nang isang team who I knew were good. Tama ako. They won 1st place. Hanggang ngayon naka paskil pa rin mga certificates nila sa shop namin). Sino ngayon ang dinadayo?And the best challenge ever, shop-development. Kung papaano mo gagawing conducive ang shop. Remove some programs, install some programs, headset use, upuan na kakaiba pero comfy, wallpaper nang desktop, cover nang pa burn at pati anggulo nang monitor, napagisipang mabuti.
What do you enjoy doing most?
I like to tweak tinker and explore my PCs, and 2 service vehicles. I love cars, I love to drive, after work, I love to spend time with my computer browse ULOP, expertexchange, read magazines like BYTE, DR. Dobbs, FHM.
Do you have any hidden talent?
singing, drawing, designing artworks, programming. interest for motorsports import tunig, that’s why shops’ name is DEN-R dennis-Racing.What kind of stuff do you dream of doing, but haven’t gotten to do?Opening a computer learning center, mobile DTP stations, franchising DEN-R, mobile internet cafe
What's the story behind your handle?
its my real name: Dennis Dy Ko
When did you get to know about ULOP and how?
I was a member of pinoydsl.net , convergence forums and PCX forums [in read only mode] I surfed the net for the word “internet café” and found ULOP
What is it about ULOP that makes you come back?
My friends. Everyone of you guys are my friends. ULOP is one big happy family of internet gurus ready to help fellow members and newbies.
Who’s your closest pal in ULOP? Why?
The regulars at Shout box and the regulars @the forums wanna know who they are? Visit ulop.net forums regularly.
What do you think will happen to ULOP 3 years from now?
It would be a TV talk show, with wizer and star as our host. Papa Rage and papa prime as the male version of our very entertaining computer program that would rival NET25s Convergence.
MESSAGES:
you've got questions on Building a Successful Internet Business or improve ur current sales? ULOP got answers.if you're an internet cafe owner. don't miss http://www.ulop.net/LOVE ULOP.... IT WILL LOVE YOU BACK....for oldies:Even when business is flourishing, don't let opportunities pass you by. with ULOP forums, your business can b more responsive find out how ULOP forums results in quality solutions for ur business.find out how ULOP's built in shoutbox and forum tools works magic for you and ur business, with ULOP your business has responsiveness BUILT IN
Handle: dennisdko
B-day: June 26
I-café: DEN-R internet Cafe
Location: MCU, Caloocan
How Did You Start Your Lanshop Business? When?
Sept 5, 2005. with just 14 units. 400K capital. I consulted a fengsui expert and got his blessing. He advised me to open the shop on Sept 5, 2005 no more no less, with 2 wks time, I converted an old supposedly HAUNTED, dirty, rat infested rice storage house to one of the most talked about tambayans in MCU. I hired 2 team of carpenters, 2 electricians. I assembled, the PCs with the help of my brother and a neighbor. I also got scared of NBI and BSA so I invested. With the help of my relatives, and 2 banks, DEN-R internet was built. What is your worst experience as a LANshop Owner?On the first week of operation, I only offered internet because I don’t know what games to install, I’m a programmer not a gamer. Gamers keep coming in they asked for DOTA, CS, I dont understand. I only offered pacman and marvel vs capcom game first day, 400.00 sales. First week, 900 pesos sales/day. I went to the fengsui expect again for help. After a while, I surfed and joined ULOP.NET it changed the way I operated my lansop.
What do you enjoy about being a lanshop owner?
Its very, very challenging. Kung may problem sa network, kung matopak ung printer, kung may virus ung diskette, kung di mag run ang isang game, lahat kailangan hanapan nang solusyon.Kung may promo yung kakumpitensya mo, isip ka nang pangkontra. (Nagpa CS Source tournament sila. Nagsponsor kami dito nang isang team who I knew were good. Tama ako. They won 1st place. Hanggang ngayon naka paskil pa rin mga certificates nila sa shop namin). Sino ngayon ang dinadayo?And the best challenge ever, shop-development. Kung papaano mo gagawing conducive ang shop. Remove some programs, install some programs, headset use, upuan na kakaiba pero comfy, wallpaper nang desktop, cover nang pa burn at pati anggulo nang monitor, napagisipang mabuti.
What do you enjoy doing most?
I like to tweak tinker and explore my PCs, and 2 service vehicles. I love cars, I love to drive, after work, I love to spend time with my computer browse ULOP, expertexchange, read magazines like BYTE, DR. Dobbs, FHM.
Do you have any hidden talent?
singing, drawing, designing artworks, programming. interest for motorsports import tunig, that’s why shops’ name is DEN-R dennis-Racing.What kind of stuff do you dream of doing, but haven’t gotten to do?Opening a computer learning center, mobile DTP stations, franchising DEN-R, mobile internet cafe
What's the story behind your handle?
its my real name: Dennis Dy Ko
When did you get to know about ULOP and how?
I was a member of pinoydsl.net , convergence forums and PCX forums [in read only mode] I surfed the net for the word “internet café” and found ULOP
What is it about ULOP that makes you come back?
My friends. Everyone of you guys are my friends. ULOP is one big happy family of internet gurus ready to help fellow members and newbies.
Who’s your closest pal in ULOP? Why?
The regulars at Shout box and the regulars @the forums wanna know who they are? Visit ulop.net forums regularly.
What do you think will happen to ULOP 3 years from now?
It would be a TV talk show, with wizer and star as our host. Papa Rage and papa prime as the male version of our very entertaining computer program that would rival NET25s Convergence.
MESSAGES:
you've got questions on Building a Successful Internet Business or improve ur current sales? ULOP got answers.if you're an internet cafe owner. don't miss http://www.ulop.net/LOVE ULOP.... IT WILL LOVE YOU BACK....for oldies:Even when business is flourishing, don't let opportunities pass you by. with ULOP forums, your business can b more responsive find out how ULOP forums results in quality solutions for ur business.find out how ULOP's built in shoutbox and forum tools works magic for you and ur business, with ULOP your business has responsiveness BUILT IN
DEN-R INTERNET
Internet cafes are located world-wide, and many people use them when traveling to access webmail and instant messengers to keep in touch with family and friends. Some of them, especially LAN Gaming Centers, are also used for multiplayer gaming, having several computer stations connected on a LAN. In this case, the computers are specially assembled for gameplay, supporting popular multiplayer games. This is reducing the need of video arcades and arcade games, and many are being closed down or are being merged into Internet cafs.Internet cafes are a natural evolution of the traditional cafe. Cafes started as places for information exchange, and have always been used as places to read the paper, send postcards home, play traditional or electronic games, chat to friends, find out local information.Internet cafes are a natural evolution of the traditional cafe.aside fr new friends, i wanna mit cafe operators as well.
Access to the Internet typically requires, at a minimum, a computer with the right software, a modem, a telephone line, and a subscription to an Internet service provider (ISP). In the Philippines, the computer and modem would cost some P25,000 (US$500); phone and ISP subscription combined would require around P1, 000 (US$20) or more per month. This is definitely beyond the reach of most poor families, though perhaps within reach of the middle class, if they were willing to drop other daily expenses. At these costs, the Internet would definitely remain an enclave of the rich. To make the Internet more accessible to the ordinary citizen, the idea of telecentres, more popularly known as Internet cafes.The Internet cafe would take care of the hardware and connectivity requirements and a user needed only to pay a per-minute charge for access to the Internet. here it cost 20.00 per hour. 18 PCs opened from 8am-12am. Although still expensive for the typical poor who might be earning under P100 to around P500 each day (US$2 to $5), Internet cafes made the Internet somewhat more accessible to the middle class and some of the poor who might need it badly for a specific purpose. thats the mission of DEN-R internet.I would estimate that on any one day, 1/2 to 2/3 of the computers in use would actually be devoted to games (very violent and gory ones, at that). The remaining active ones would be split roughly evenly between online chat, word processing/printing, and browsing/E-mail, with a few somewhat more engaged in chatting.DEN-R internet caf will initially have 20 Pseats. All the computers in DEN-R are equipped with branded AMD Athlon64 3.0, 1GB memory & a 80 GB harddisk drive to add more power & speed to the machine. it also features 19" & 17" colored monitors for all the workstations and headsets for privacy. With all these advanced technology that DEN-R has to offer, a surfer would really feel the rush of speed and power of seismic proportions.
While broadband access and a computer system in each home is the norm in other countries, most Filipinos in our country still rely on the ubiquitous neighborhood Internet café as the main source for their Internet access and gaming needs. In this light, it is essential to promote and improve Internet café services to better serve the average Filipino’s demand for quality online content at broadband speed and world-class customer supprt
Access to the Internet typically requires, at a minimum, a computer with the right software, a modem, a telephone line, and a subscription to an Internet service provider (ISP). In the Philippines, the computer and modem would cost some P25,000 (US$500); phone and ISP subscription combined would require around P1, 000 (US$20) or more per month. This is definitely beyond the reach of most poor families, though perhaps within reach of the middle class, if they were willing to drop other daily expenses. At these costs, the Internet would definitely remain an enclave of the rich. To make the Internet more accessible to the ordinary citizen, the idea of telecentres, more popularly known as Internet cafes.The Internet cafe would take care of the hardware and connectivity requirements and a user needed only to pay a per-minute charge for access to the Internet. here it cost 20.00 per hour. 18 PCs opened from 8am-12am. Although still expensive for the typical poor who might be earning under P100 to around P500 each day (US$2 to $5), Internet cafes made the Internet somewhat more accessible to the middle class and some of the poor who might need it badly for a specific purpose. thats the mission of DEN-R internet.I would estimate that on any one day, 1/2 to 2/3 of the computers in use would actually be devoted to games (very violent and gory ones, at that). The remaining active ones would be split roughly evenly between online chat, word processing/printing, and browsing/E-mail, with a few somewhat more engaged in chatting.DEN-R internet caf will initially have 20 Pseats. All the computers in DEN-R are equipped with branded AMD Athlon64 3.0, 1GB memory & a 80 GB harddisk drive to add more power & speed to the machine. it also features 19" & 17" colored monitors for all the workstations and headsets for privacy. With all these advanced technology that DEN-R has to offer, a surfer would really feel the rush of speed and power of seismic proportions.
While broadband access and a computer system in each home is the norm in other countries, most Filipinos in our country still rely on the ubiquitous neighborhood Internet café as the main source for their Internet access and gaming needs. In this light, it is essential to promote and improve Internet café services to better serve the average Filipino’s demand for quality online content at broadband speed and world-class customer supprt
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